I've always had weight loss ideas for the Malibu in my mind and now thought it was time to compile a list. Feel free to add ideas you may have as well.

Keep in mind that not all these items are appropriate for all applications. Each of us must decide what is worth doing, and what are a bit too far "out there" for what we are trying to accomplish.

i can say this, if I had to build my car again from scratch, I'd surely take weight more seriously. When i originally built the car many years ago, I never really gave component weight much thought. As the years pass and i make parts changes here and there, I'm looking at weight much closer as ounces add up to pounds in the end.

enjoy
Todd

- remove undercoating

- remove any sound deadening material

- remove air conditioning

- remove heater box

- remove air ducts under dash

- remove heater or A/C controls

- remove radio & speakers

- remove rear seat

- remove crash bars in doors

- remove wiper motor, linkage, and arms

- remove spare tire & jack

- remove passenger side mirror

- remove front & rear sway bars

- remove emergency brake components

- swap power steering for manual steering

- swap manual steering for rack & pinion conversion

- swap power brakes for manual brakes

- swap tilt steering column for standard

- swap standard steering column for lightweight chromoly tube

- plastic headlights

- light weight race disc brakes front & rear

- light weight aluminum or plastic race seats

- aluminum rear firewall instead of steel

- use minimum gauges to monitor critical functions only

- remove unneeded wiring circuits & wire from dash & car

- aluminum intake manifold

- aluminum heads

- aluminum block???

- aluminum radiator

- aluminum water pump

- aluminum radiator core support

- chromoly tube radiator core support

- chromoly tubular A-arms

- chromoly tubular transmission crossmember

- fiberglass front & rear bumpers, eliminate factory bumper shocks, fab LW mounts

- fiberglass hood liftoff lighter than hinged

- fiberglass doors

- fiberglass trunk lid

- fiberglass dash

- lexan windows

- chromoly roll bar/cage instead of heavier/thicker wall mild steel

- 8.5 10 bolt or 12 bolt rear is lighter than most Ford 9" rears

- if using Ford 9", use aluminum center section and/or chromoly fabricated housing

- aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft

- gun drilled/profiled flange axles

- lightened spool

- titanium drive studs

- shorter rear with shallow back space wheels are lighter than longer rear and deep backspace wheel combination

- light weight aluminum wheels...compare brands & weight. Many of the new design drag wheels are lighter than the older draglites, drag stars, centerlines, etc.

- light weight drag tires, both front & rear...again compare brands, Hoosier D/R lighter than M/T D/R.

- if using bias ply slicks, remove inner tubes

- keep bolts as short as possible, eliminate washers when you can

- use 1 battery instead of 2

- consider using 16 volt battery and remove alternator...charge between rounds

- new dry cell batteries are smaller & lighter than older wet cell designs

- car audio acoustical carpet lighter than rubber backed factory carpet

- powerglide is lighter than th350 or th400

- if needing 3 speed, maybe consider lightened version like the Kilgore, Coan or Rossler versions

- aluminum or titanium body/sheetmetal fasteners

- use newer breed nylon covered braided hose instead of stainless steel braided hose

- keep exhaust as short as possible, compare muffler weights from different manufacturers

- factory block is lighter than aftermarket

- aluminum rods lighter than steel

- smaller radiator lighter and holds less water, less weight

- acid dipping non critical/structural componenets

There are even tubular bolts made in 2 pieces for areas where you can safely use them. The tube is welded to the bolt head and is threaded externally. Pretty neat stuff. There is always titanium/aluminum to use as fasteners as well. Carbon fiber is lighter than fiberglass also. Unsprung weight is one place I'd work on first in a suspended car of any kind. Ala rifle-drilled and pocket-milled axles/lightest wheels/etc. I've even seen some drivers that could use a diet!!!

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Oldani Motorsports, TCI, BTE, JW, Hipster/ATD, Jesel, Comp Cams/Powerhouse, Jomar, Stef's/B&B, Nitroplate, Impact, AFR, Morel, Crane, Isky, Jager, etc. ...

That pretty much sums it up. An engine with 250hp should get a car with all that weight removal into the 11's. Maybe make the car a convertable will help also.

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1978 Malibu - Owned since 1986
Highly Modified 600rwhp Touring Coupe!
Will bring smiles and pinched buttocks to the passengers!

You can also trim/remove/holesaw the inner structure of the doors in addition to removing the crash bars. Sheetmetal door panels also an option.

Also, you can remove the front wheel wells, and gut the innards of the front fenders.

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Don't leave home without your Umbrella

-Lightweight (aluminum) supports instead of normal bumper shocks
-Replace center of engine crossmember with tube for weight savings and oil pan clearence
-On some cars like Regals the metal inner part of the fenders can be unbolted
-Use a fuel cell
-Manual everything (no power windows etc.)
-Use Dzues or pin fasteners instead of hinges/springs
-Remove horn(s)
-Aluminum/Carbon Fiber driveshafts
-Fill your tires with Nitrogen or Helium

There are so many...

http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/w ... ction.html

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Remove factory seat belts and there "buckets" in the rear. These actually surprised me with there weight.

Slim Fast for chubby driver

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http://www.myspace.com/exceleraterracing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

No, no, no. Make the car lighter so you don't have to be

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Just more hp. Bigger N2O jets, Smaller pulley, Bigger Turbo!

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CDR Performance
The Custom Engine Shop
Sponsor of the YellowBullet Nationals

You might find this hard to believe, but a Ford 9" is lighter than a 12-bolt. It's even lighter than a 10-bolt.

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John
http://www.tntraceshop.com
Phone: 763-785-0161
E-mail: 5-door@tntraceshop.com

TNT Raceshop on Facebook

I'm not sure if I would buy that or not. If that were true, then why would some NHRA Super Stockers and Comp eliminator cars run a 12 bolt (I've seen dragsters with GM 12 bolts...I've even seen Mopar S/S cars with GM 12 bolts. I guess it could also be less parasitic loss due to the pinion to ring gear position. But a stock 9" with an iron center section, I'm pretty darn sure the 9" is heavier than a 12 bolt.

Not having weighed either side-by-side myself, I surely could be mistaken though.

You know, my rear end guy also swore that a 9" was lighter than a 12 bolt. I guess this could also depend on whose housing it is (stock or aftermarket), and what chunk/axles you're using.

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Don't leave home without your Umbrella

I dont buy that either at least stock for stockt... i would say you would need gun drilled axles, alum chunk, alum spool, alum pinion support..

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275RTCTTFMF
Thanks Jakes Performance Fabrication

moneys is no object?
9" moly housing, titanium 1 piece tube axle, titanium flanges and studs, raised pinion center section, titanium spool, and yoke

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Working towards a internet degree!

Something like this...



Of course with carbon fiber brakes

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CDR Performance
The Custom Engine Shop
Sponsor of the YellowBullet Nationals