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1978-1988 GM G-Body Rear Coilover Kit, Control Arm Relocation, Bolt-In, Stock Height​ P/N 3064-110 and 3064-150​ $849.99 http://umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_58&products_id=1125 Application:​ 1978 - 1988 Chevrolet Monte Carlo, Malibu, El Camino 1978 -...

Most shock companies like Afco, Viking, QA1 can get specific on shock applications. If you measure the ride height ( with springs installed - measurement between upper and lower shock mounts) you can then order shocks that are correct for your application. This normally helps with the issue of...

Both the #3048 and #3049 fit factory Gm rears. The #3048 gives you the ability to move the rear mounting point of the lower control arm to change the instant center if you need to control wheel hop/spin. With the #3049 it doesn't fully sandwich the lower control arm bracket on the rear, so...

The double adj. shocks work very well regardless if you are going the coil-over route or staying with a coil-spring. The main advantage of coil-overs is the ability to adjust the ride height. You can also change spring rates a lot easier if you are using coil-overs

It all comes down to budget...Viking is probably the best "bang for your buck" double adj. shock out there right now. With the numbers you posted i would look into the Crusader series for the rear and the Warrior series for the front. The difference is that the Crusaders have custom valving that...

For the axle mounted anti-roll bar, 1-3/8" OD, 0.250" wall, 34" active torsion length, 6, 7 and 8" arms depending on hole chosen. The standard mount bar is 1" solid but poses a unique calculation problem and therefore I've never seen a rating for that style. ramey

For what it's worth, we are a small company and can't negotiate shipping like Summit can. We charge actual shipping with no hidden charges and do our best. We appreciate our customers whether they order direct or through a dealer. ramey

We love cats. :shock:

I'm not greatly familiar with the HR design but I think they are similar in concept. We manufacture all the components in our kit in our facility and of US material. We are currently having a christmas sale that would save you 10% and free shipping$$ If you need any info feel free to give me...

Oops, sorry. It's easier to explain with a diagram. http://www.longacreracing.com/technical-articles.aspx?item=45654&article=Bumpsteer%20Tech%20-%20Back%20to%20Basics Really the only way to know if you have zero bump is to use a gauge. Or if you have more time and skill than $ (which is most...

We have a few different options for coil-overs for G-Body's. If you need any info feel free to give me a call here at the shop Craig

Bump Steer can get complicated when you get into specifics and measuring. In a "nutshell" you want your tie rods as parallel to the ground as you can get them. Bump Steer is improper length or angle of your suspension and steering linkages due mostly in part from changing the ride height or...

My bad...sorry about that. Craig

Sorry I missed this post.I was on the road at Good Guys Columbus. We have 12 bolt swap arms for a G-Body http://umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8_60_68 Craig

The biggest advantage to coil-overs is the ability to adjust ride height and the ease of changing spring rates. The factory shocks and incorrect springs are probably the biggest culprit of your traction issues. other things like instant center that will play a part in it. At minimum i would...

If the spring has one end cut flat and the other end is an open coil, make sure the flat end of the spring is installed to the top. Craig

If it hooks good then breaks, It sounds like you need more rebound force in the rear shocks. Double adj. shocks are the ticket for the ability to tune the compression and rebound forces individually. Craig

Sorry that I missed this post! I'm definitely not up to snuff on the "drift" set-ups but if you want to give me a call here at the shop I'm sure we can figure out what components and rates will achieve what you are trying to accomplish...

There is where all the talk of "binding" comes from in poly bushings. Factory torque specs are for rubber bushings! If you tighten aftermarket poly bushings to factory specs you will more than likely have problems with the bushings making noise or actually cracking from being to tight...

The sway bar mounting holes should be 5.5" center to center for G-bodies. Never heard of any kind of adapters. Sounds like you have the wrong sway bar. Craig