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Unless your racing heads up on a .400 pro tree there is no real reason to launch at 5000 rpm with an automatic. Launch rpm is for tuning your reaction time. Next time try launching at 3600 rpm. It will flash the converter a little harder and stick the tire a little harder. When I ran an iron...

Thanks, yes I did all the wiring. I have a background in low voltage wiring. Did high end car audio for 5 or 6 years, then residential/commercial security/cctv for another 5 or 6 years.

I used a switch & relay panel by K&R, makes for a neat install and includes all labeled wires & connectors.

I use the Autometer data logger dash in my car.

Thanks. Swapping rear gears, having the trans rebuilt, engine going to builder for inspection, gonna try a new converter or two in the spring and maybe new brakes. Rear wheels have double beadlocks from Mac-Fab. I assume that i what your referring to?

Tore the car down preparing for winter maintenance and upgrades/changes.

A round tube back half consists of more than just a single pair of round frame rails out back. It's built with a ladder assembly to give the frame height which is how it's made strong compared to a 2x3 square tube frame. Just two round rails under the stock floor will not have enough strength...

If doing a round tube back half, why in the world would you keep the stock rear floor. With all the tubes needed, the stock floor will be nothing but in the way, make a mess trying to make patches and close off the big holes and add weight.

I've never run a 2 circuit dominator, all have been 3 circuit. I've used from a 1050 to a 1250 to a 2.40" billet main body dominator.

Digital Delay also sells a kit very similar to the K&R. Available in black & chrome and they have standard kits as well as one that has an option to control an electronic dial board for bracket racers. http://racedigitaldelay.com/switch-mp-elite-b.php

I used the K&R HD kit, I like the stud version instead of the plastic sockets for wire attachment. It's a great kit and a bargain when you take into consideration it includes the relay board, switch panel (connects with only one cable) and all the wire and connectors to wire the car minus...

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http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1121930 http://www.dragzine.com/features/sema-coverage/sema-2014-mickey-thompson-rolls-out-a-number-of-new-tire-lines/

If the back half is already done your limited to how far you can move the axle as is. I limit threading 4 link bar rod ends out to 5 turns most of the time. If you wanna move it back a noticable amount then new longer 4 link bars may be needed. You can center the rear in the opening how you see...

with that tall of a tire you have no choice but to stretch the quarter panel opening.

Re: 1978 malibu Rear window sweeps and vernier moldings!!!!! I bought these. http://dixiemontecarlo.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=DM30230&d=497&p=2

Your either gonna need to fabricate a custom hinge, or like myself I removed the hinges completely and went to a fiberglass deck lid that is attached with dzus fasteners.

If you just do the inner wheel well all you need to do is remove the factory hinge brace and make a new one to attach to the squared off fabricated inner tub. If you do a full tub then you may need to modify the hinge depending on how high you mount the tub.

You can leave the outer wheel well and fabricate a new inner that is moved in.

DO NOT WELD! You will warp the quarter panels, even if you do body work it will show some time down the road. Fit the tubs to have a 1/8" to 1/4" gap from the edge of the tube to the inside of the quarter panel. Do not fit the tub tight against the quarter panel. We use urethane seam sealer...