I have a 29.5 x 10.5 Hoosier slicks mounted on 10" rims. With a max frame notch and stock wheels tubs Had to clearance the tubs at the bottom corners. No rubbing and about an inch into the wheel well. That is a 30.5 inches tall and 11 inch tread width tire and is at least equal to or slightly...
If it has the wiper controls on that lever too you don't have to remove it to tighten the tilt screws. You remove the steering wheel,lock plate and cancel cam, there is a screw holding a small lever on the turn switch that is actuated by the turn lever. Just FYI if you have never tightened the...
Drill and tap snubber hole for a 1/2 bolt. Use a long grade 8 bolt as the stop, thread the bolt threw the old snubber hole and use a nut to lock it in place after you adjust it. I did this on my UMI uppers works like a charm.
No it should not. You either have a bad ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch. If your getting acc in the lock position. I would go for the electrical ignition switch first. It must be adjusted to work properly the switch is slotted for this.
If your switching to coil overs that's what you will be doing anyway when you install the bar for the shock mounts. If your going to notch it, do a max notch, your all ready in there, might as well go all the way. Just my .02
I would disconnect and plug the vacuum advance, Install a recurve kit in the distributor with the lightest springs. Set my total timing at 36deg, all in by 3k rpm let the idle timing fall where it may as long as it starts ok.
Lol, That was the before picture of course. Its fixed, loaded up and ready for this weekend. Took longer to clean out the housing than anything. Nice work on the air filter housing by the way, looks good.
I deal with this sort of thing all the time at work. It sounds like you either have a bad cluster ground or the most likely is the cluster is failing. GM clusters are crap at best. The cluster on that year Cavalier is tied into the anti theft system I'm pretty sure. So a junk yard cluster wont...
Ive been running a stock v6 drive shaft with solid 1310 U joints for years. Hundreds of Low low 10's and a hand full of 9.7's on spray. Not saying do as I do, but it works. If I had a 1350 shaft and yokes I would swap.
Yes I have used them. They were ok up to a certain point, when I started running in the 10's my car was leaving all crooked, one wheel 2ft off the ground and the other still on the ground. I installed a Trick Chassis ARB, problem solved. The ARB keeps the frame and body from twisting (so to...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.