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How do you do this. Power from the reverse lights to after the button?

Its a pro brake like he said, there are other brands that you don't have to do that with. We had one but I think you could put a toggle switch in the line to make backing up easier before it starts a conversation about nhra rules, were not all class racers.

Have some but they are umi with your brackets, is measuring it on the ground still the right way when its designed to seperate?

I've decided to try the middle hole for this season and my pinion angle is -6, should I try and lift the car to seperate the suspension and measure that way? It has a limiter in the back so it'll only drop so far

I bet they loved you bringing them that, made the job a lot easier

How much would a 14 150 or 175 raise his car?

It doesn't have to be an air gap, made no difference on my car changing from a cheap swap meet rpm. Infact I traded that off and cleaned up the casting flash inside the rpm, hardly any money invested Never tried the EPs but I did read an artical. I'd be willing to bet you can get a regular sbc...

Leave the ladder bars and buy a anti roll bar, that cars angry lol

Forget the 10 in wheel and use an 8 like everyone's saying, cheaper, easier to find used, lighter and I agree safer. If you don't wanna notch the frame don't bother playing with those big boys

I have these and recommend them if you don't want the car to squat

Same here. Try the trick springs with your 12 bolt, that inch put the angle on my upper arms and its hooking good. Idk if the pass spring thing is overrated or not because we haven't ran it without an airbag, I had them already

looks like its time to spend some money, i have bmr lower brakets on mine and wouldnt recomend them for a lowered street car but they do work

ok, so that tabs not solid on his rear end. it still has the bushing in it?. i know what you mean now because my lower brackets have the holes drilled on an angle from each other. if those tabs were solid on the rear end and the bushing in the control arm, that should work because the short arm...

i don't. the arm looks easily 2 inches higher at the back from were it was, even moved his pinion. how did it not change? i can see it rotating under load though

notthing

installed hooker 2242 headers on mine. cut the inner fenders for the tubes that go around the frame... no big deal they are broke anyways. pounded the firewall/floor in a few spots to make things easier... no problem the car always breaks and it made me feel a bit better, followed the...

last year...

some matching black wheels with the white letters in and a bit lower in the rear would make this a money maker, i love it. bench and column shift in mine also but needed a hood and i didnt hide the tach yet so i ruined it but love sleepers

those 60's are pretty good for that car. my car likes leaving just above idle better then it does loaded up, it still leaves hard and ive had 60's in the 1.3s (no arb) but its not every pass mostly 1.5s. the lower brackets hes talking about i have and work well. i suggest taking the bump stops...