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Going back to a 350 from the 700r4 and since the dipstick hole is the same size i'd like to use my nice locking stick. Just wondering if anybody knew about the fluid level marks. Hate to spend $50 or more if I could adapt this one to work.

I bought a set 4 or 5 years ago. they're stout! Still are using the lowers, changed the uppers to adjustable.

Plenty of sites have compression ratio calculators, I believe Summit has one. Pretty simple to do yourself.

Re: UMI Releases New Product: Front Frame Reinforcement Brac What is the total weight ?

Picked up a set of QA1 r series coilovers which came with 450# springs. I need 350#, my car weighs 1765 in front. Would you go with the regular or the high travel springs?

Probably lost your leash. Seriously, nice looking wagon bud. See ya in april. Terry

Looking at this also.

Those are the new short travel hyd. rollers, I made the switch last year. Found out the hard way that the new ones are .200 taller. You will need shorter pushrods. I had to go from 7.4" to 7.2" length. I believe the part # is 15853-16 on the new ones. Supposed to be higher RPM potential with the...

Well, here is what worked for me and I didn't tear anything up. Removed the 2 bottom bolts and left the top one loose on the box. Used my aluminum Harbor Freight jack to put tension on the pitman arm. Instead of using a torch I utilized my heat gun set on low to heat the pitman arm. After 10-12...

Bought a manual box from a member here that has the correct pitman arm already installed. Doing the jeep shaft conversion at the same time. Best way to separate these w/o tearing things up too bad? Just replaced all front suspension components 2 seasons ago. If I use a fork and a BFH it looks...

Install went pretty much w/o issues. The bracket just barely clears the rim on my 17 / 9.5 wheels. If I didn't have to use 3/8 spacers for the tire to clear the frame rail it might be an issue. 275/40/17 tires.

Instructions look pretty straightforward, any tips or tricks from anybody? Car is lowered and with my 27-10.5-15 E.T. Streets the arm is slightly uphill from front to rear. Haven't been able to hook up my camino with the new 406. Tires are brand new, hoping these will tip the scales in my favor.

When I did mine a couple of years ago, got a kit from Speedway. Part # 917-3236, $159.99. Comes with ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, tie rod sleeves, center link and idler arm. 1 easy kit.

I've used the Summit fan- shroud- radiator combo for 5 years now. Part # SUM-csum3802 $414.13 for everything including a cap and thermostatic control. Not a bad price for the whole package. Never had any issues with any of it. Very minor fab is needed.

Most of drag strip guys I know use Long shifters. I'm not sure if they make one for your application or not. Most of them use Jerico or G- force transmissions.

A couple of years ago I had a similar issue, it turned out to be my corrugated metal radiator hoses. The shiny kind with chrome end covers. they were about 3/8 inch smaller tubes than the rubber ones, although you couldn't tell from the outside. Changed them and problem solved.

Always have run a gutted t-stat with my electric pump. Last spring I noticed it sitting on the cowl after buttoning up the motor. Too lazy to drain water again, didn't seem to make much difference.

What's the best way to drain and package a conv. to send out for restall. Going to send it to Hughes.

I've always read that you are supposed to disconnect the negative battery cable when working on electrical stuff. Does it really matter? It's more convenient for me to unhook the pos. side. Just wondering.

Here's another for the Street Lites. If I could afford to do it all again. lol