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Z bar will be lighter and close to identical in terms of stiffness. Just leave 'er alone.

While you shouldn't be resting on the bump stops, you should still be getting some sort of transfer. If you take the shock out of the equation, you should be able to verify if there is something else in your front suspension that is binding.

Do you have travel if you disconnect the shocks?

What type of racing do you do, and how fast is the car?

Most of the aftermarket are non-low drag. You may want to give Speedway Motors a call and confirm. They sell a ton of metric calipers for the IMCA/roundy round guys.

Go full loose on extension, full tight on compression, and then come in a few clicks each way as a starting point. If you're blowing them off at the hit, then you need the extension to let the rear separate and the weight of the car keep them planted. If you do that, and it dead hooks before...

Is it biting and unloading as soon as you start to roll, or blowing it off immediately at the hit?

Holley or FAST. IMO, call Brian Macy at Horsepower Connection/the EFI Store and go over your options. You may spend a few more bucks with him (or any reputable dealer) vs. Summit, etc, but the support is worth it. When I was having problems with my Holley, Brian took care of it immediately...

Any installed pics?

If you do a search over on Yellow Bullet, there are quite a few threads with feedback from users.

I had used machine screws and nylocks. I wouldn't go any thicker than 1/8" or so back there, personally. I didn't weld any extra material back there, but can't remember just how tight/flush it was to the factory sheet metal.

Not much to it. Rear windows are fixed and can slide into the factory track openings. Hardest part about the long rear windows is getting them not to pucker based on fastener selection and lexan thickness. I had some cracking issues a long time ago, but was using too thick of a material...

Para Carry 45, Bersa Thunder .380 if I need to be more careful about concealing it.

Don't think so, it's been in storage for a few years. It boogies, but is the ugliest thing you've ever seen :D

You can notch identically to the coupes. Same frame rail setup, just need to get more creative with the tubs. I notched to the seam with factory tubs and have a 28x10 tucked in there with plenty of room to spare.

Just curious, what was the justification for the hydraulic roller? To Tommy's point, I love solid rollers. I turn my motors fairly hard, and have never had my lash move on me when using a solid roller with a roller rocker/girdle setup, or with my current Jesel shaft setup.

Per member request, lets use this topic to open up a discussion on: -Advancements on solid roller and hydraulic roller cams -Street use, pros and cons of each -Race use, pros and cons of each -Limitations of each for race and street use -Cam selection

You name it, it's been done to these cars. No problems putting in a crossmember, just be sure you do a little planning if you are going to put an anti roll bar in the car at any point.

Your location is fine, but like liquidh8 said, low tanks can be a problem, especially if your tank isn't baffled internally. I'm switching to a fuel cell/surge tank setup next year in the Mazda.

He's going to want good idle output. I'd recommend a 140 amp, with something that will put out over 100 at idle. It makes a big difference with EFI. There's a father/son on eBay who are building CS130's at 140 amps/110 amp idle for pretty cheap. I just went with one on my hill climb car.