Baseline 8.8 UCA install

dvanhorn

Amateur Racer
Jan 13, 2009
170
0
0
Granite Falls, NC 28630
Using a mid 80's mustang rearend remove the old uca bushings and replace with spherical type bushings ( spherical bushings were used to correct the angle of the mounting ears). Get the ones with the 12mm bolt hole. You can use the ones with the 1/2" hole but you will have to bore the U bracket on the uca. Have to use lower control arms with rod type ends (connect the lca's to rearend and to frame this will help locate were to mount spring perches). Cut the spring perches off the 7.5 slowly jack the rearend up to meet the springs making sure rear is centered and tack them on the 8.8. Lower and weld completely. Now you can start mounting the uca brackets and arms (just follow his directions very well written). When it comes to boring the 1/2" hole for the bottom bolt I used a pair of vise grips to hold the bracket tight against the frame. Something that may help is after the spring perches have been welded and checked remove springs this will make it easy to reach the top bolts on the uca's. You may have to shorten the threaded part on the uca to get the pinion angle you want. The brake line off the 7.5 will bolt up to the 8.8 wheel cylinders just strech it to fit. I don't know if this will work with disk brakes but will for drum brakes. Replace the pinion yoke with one from strange or moser for the 1350 u-joint can use same drive shaft. I deleted the parking brake so you are on your own on that. Here are a few pictures for my project.
Bucket bolted in.

car003.jpg


Clamped down.

car004.jpg


Finished install.

car002.jpg


Side view finished.

car005.jpg


My new low rider.

car006.jpg
 

dvanhorn

Amateur Racer
Thread starter
Jan 13, 2009
170
0
0
Granite Falls, NC 28630
I have modified my lca's to recenter the tire in the wheel well. Took the to a machine shop and had them shortened a inch costed a whole $30. They were some that I had. They worked good until I lowered it them the rearend was to far back. I'll put them on this weekend.
 

dvanhorn

Amateur Racer
Thread starter
Jan 13, 2009
170
0
0
Granite Falls, NC 28630
No I used the strange 8.8 yoke it uses strap type u-joint connecters. For now I used the same u-joint and all, going to get new drive shaft made when I put in the new motor just for the added strength.
 

dvanhorn

Amateur Racer
Thread starter
Jan 13, 2009
170
0
0
Granite Falls, NC 28630
After lowering the car to a good race height I had to modify the uca's by cutting the center adjuster down by 3/8's off each end to get pinion angle to - 1.5. After cutting the center part I had to trim the threaded part that fits to the rearend so it would not bottom out in the center. None of it was hard to do. Used a pipe cutter to score the center them cut with a hacksaw, clean up with sand paper and ziz wheel (die grinder with sanding pad).
 

1981Regal

Dragway Regular
Mar 10, 2008
1,274
0
0
Cincinnati, Ohio
So with the ford pinion flange the length of the driveshaft is the same? I bought an 89 gt rear and trying to get a few ideas for the 8.8 swap. Did your 8.8 have the quad shocks? Anymore pictures of the rear?
 

dvanhorn

Amateur Racer
Thread starter
Jan 13, 2009
170
0
0
Granite Falls, NC 28630
The pinion flange will come off and use an after market pinion yoke moser and strange make one that are similar to a GM type yoke that is held on by a nut in the center. I found mine at summit. It had quad shock mounts on it and I took them off. I put the shock mounting stud in the hole in back of the bracket for the lca. If you let me know what you would like to see I can take more pictures.
 

1981Regal

Dragway Regular
Mar 10, 2008
1,274
0
0
Cincinnati, Ohio
If you still have the part number for the conversion yoke could you post it? I would like some overall pictures of the upper control arms and lower - shock setup - if possible.
 

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