Cam kit advice

[80Bu355]

Son's car has some sort or valve train issue (cam lobe gone or lifter failure) It's a stock 350 with about 70k miles on it. Wanting to put a new cam, lifters, and timing gear set in it while I have it apart trying to figure out the problem. My questions is I want a decent cam but since the 100% street driven I dont want to put anything radical in it and i dont want to have to get the springs changed in the heads. Anyone have any ideas? I was looking at this but wasnt sure if it the right choice or not. http://www.hdmaddog.com/Chevrolet-GMC/Camshafts-Lifters-Cam/SB-Chevy-327-350hp-Complete-p3678288.html


I know it should just but taken out and completely rebuilt but that isnt an option at the moment.

 

[80Bu355]

Anyone? Any ideas?

 

[pabloairmale]

Thats pretty cheap on price! I didnt see any cam specs or type of chain. Look at howard cams in wisconsin. they make good strong grinds. make sure you put a additive in the engine when you start it. chevelles.com has alot of info on cams too.

 

[80Bu355]

Yeah I assume that cam is the same spec as the original 327 350hp. But I sent an email to them just to make sure. Still not sure if that cam will require a valve spring change or not. Trying to avoid that

 

[SSedan64]

Those old factory HP Cams have a lot of Duration & long slow ramps. They are much easier on springs than the newer XE & Voodoo type lobes. Much less chance of wiping a lobe at breakin also.
Cam specs here >> http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=2&sb=0
A cheap $30 set of Z-28 style springs would be a good idea. Old stock springs are probably weak anyway. You can get the Springs, Crome-Moly Retainers & Locks for $60.
Springs>> http://www.competitionproducts.com/Howards-Performance-Street_Strip-Valve-Springs-Hyd-FT/productinfo/98214/
Spring Kit>> http://www.competitionproducts.com/CP-High-Performance-Street-Valve-Spring-Package-1250-Dia/productinfo/VSA3/

Spring Specs:
Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Mechanical Flat Tappet Valve Springs
O.D.: 1.250
I.D.: .870
Description: Single w/Damp
Seat Pressure: 115 @ 1.700
Open Pressure: 300 @ 1.250
Rate: 411
Coil Bind: 1.160
Max Lift: .500

 

[80Bu355]

Those old factory HP Cams have a lot of Duration & long slow ramps. They are much easier on springs than the newer XE & Voodoo type lobes. Much less chance of wiping a lobe at breakin also.
Cam specs here >> http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=2&sb=0
A cheap $30 set of Z-28 style springs would be a good idea. Old stock springs are probably weak anyway. You can get the Springs, Crome-Moly Retainers & Locks for $60.
Springs>> http://www.competitionproducts.com/Howards-Performance-Street_Strip-Valve-Springs-Hyd-FT/productinfo/98214/
Spring Kit>> http://www.competitionproducts.com/CP-High-Performance-Street-Valve-Spring-Package-1250-Dia/productinfo/VSA3/

Spring Specs:
Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Mechanical Flat Tappet Valve Springs
O.D.: 1.250
I.D.: .870
Description: Single w/Damp
Seat Pressure: 115 @ 1.700
Open Pressure: 300 @ 1.250
Rate: 411
Coil Bind: 1.160
Max Lift: .500

Thanks for the info. I was trying to avoid having to take the heads off but it doesn't appear to be so. I have never tried changing valve springs with the heads still on the engine. Id be afraid of dropping the valve down on top of the piston.

 

[t5montecarlo]

You can change the spring on the head if you use compressed air in the cylinder or push a rope into the spark plug hole when the piston is near TDC. The rope will prevent the valve from dropping. I have used both techniques and both have their pros/cons.