I went to the track last night and had all kinds of issues with traction. My suspension consists of a 12 bolt with TRZ double adjustable uppers with Lakewood lift bars. I'm using the old relocation brackets off my SSM lift bars. I'm using a Spohn bolt in anti roll bar. My shocks are Lakewood 50/50s. Tires are MT 275/60/15 drag radials. Out of five runs I hooked one time. I met up with David aka Malibu355 he runs hoosier 28 x 10 slick and had no problems hooking all night. I have a little more power but you wouldn't have known it last night. My 60' times were embarrasing 2 of them were over 2 seconds. The only run I hooked on I went 1.64 60' with a 7.34 in the 1/8 at 94 mph. My first run the car went into a violent spinning wheel hop. I will say this is a brand new combination as far as engine and suspension goes. One of my questions is for you guys that run drag radials is there some tracks that they just won't work on? A couple of weeks ago I went to another track and had no traction problems whatsoever.
Drag Radial Traction problems
- Thread starter Drew
- Start date
Let me understand this. You're using the Lakewood bars which raise the upper ears on the housings, and drop brackets on the LCA's?
Get rid of the SSM relocation brackets and go try again. Your instant center is waaaaaaay back in the car, that's more than likely what's causing the wheel hop.
Get rid of the SSM relocation brackets and go try again. Your instant center is waaaaaaay back in the car, that's more than likely what's causing the wheel hop.
Supe... What he means is he is using the Lakewood LCA lift bars with the SSM brackets on the rearend. If I read your post right you were thinking about the Lakewood no-hop bars.
David is correct. Sorry for the confusion. I switched to the Lakewood lift bars because my SSMs bars were worn and had a little slop. A little more info I left out earlier, I have TRZ spherical bushings and the uppers are almost as short as they can go which is the same length as the fixed upper swap arms that were originally on the the car with the SSM's when I got it.
I will save you alot of trouble Andrew. Let me bring my car to your house and you can give me your rear end and all the suspension LOL. cool.gif
To me this may be a classic example of the differences between slicks and radials.
Slicks will recover from wheel spin where the radials will not. If the track prep is marginal, the radial will have more trouble hooking. M/T radials are famous for this where the Hoosiers radials will try and recover.
Also, if your seeing wheel hop that to me is an indication of one or two things, possibly both.
Too low of air pressure in the tires and/or too soft of shock settings out back. Radials tend to like a firm compression setting and a medium rebound setting. The tires do not like to be shocked hard.
from my experience you really need a good set of double adjustable shocks to run radials with any serious power. Lower powered cars may get away with lesser quality shocks, but the more power you make, the better shock you need. Also lower powered cars need a good amount of front end travel to help transfer weight.
Slicks will recover from wheel spin where the radials will not. If the track prep is marginal, the radial will have more trouble hooking. M/T radials are famous for this where the Hoosiers radials will try and recover.
Also, if your seeing wheel hop that to me is an indication of one or two things, possibly both.
Too low of air pressure in the tires and/or too soft of shock settings out back. Radials tend to like a firm compression setting and a medium rebound setting. The tires do not like to be shocked hard.
from my experience you really need a good set of double adjustable shocks to run radials with any serious power. Lower powered cars may get away with lesser quality shocks, but the more power you make, the better shock you need. Also lower powered cars need a good amount of front end travel to help transfer weight.
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