How do you get the doors off? i've never done it before and looked at it but im stumped, im buying the hinge and bushing repair kit from dixie, and were painting the doors and hinges so why not do it all at one shot.
How to take doors off 79 malibu 2 door
- Thread starter 79BuOwner
- Start date
there are 3 bolts top and and 3 bolts bottom, you can either take the door of and leave the hinges or take the hinges aswell. Get a jack and a long 2x4 put it under the door with a bit of pressure and undo the bolts but have a buddy there to balance the door when it comes off. Thats what i did and it worked out alright.
where are the bolts located and to replace the hinge and bushing would it be easier to have the hinges off, or left on?
disregard the where the bolts or located part, i know whatcha mean. haha, i'm just being stupid now.
Tell ya what I did. Takes a few more people but easier than the hassle of adjusting in the end. I first took a die grinder with a small cutting disc and cut the swedged (lower) ends of the hinge pins off. With the door open, and several people holding the door steady, I tapped the pins up and out of the hinges with a slightly smaller OD punch. Lower first, and then the top. (Tape off the door and fender edges in case the door slips).
Once the pins are out remove the door carefully. Watch the flying holding spring (I tied it up with wire before-hand. Once removed, the hinge/halfs are out in the open. Mark or drill small index holes through the hinges into the body or doors. I just scribbed mine. Once rebuilt, the halves can be reinstalled in the same location making adjustment allittle easier.
As for rebuilding the hinges, I didn't go with the replacement bushing and pin route. I went to our local hardware store and found flanged bronze bushings that were larger. 3/8" ID and 1/2" OD. Think the flange is slightly larger than 5/8" in diameter, had to file some of the thickness off. I drilled the outer half (hinge) out to 3/8" and the inner half to 1/2". I then used a 3/8" X 4 1/4" long, I think (no threads in the bushings) grade 8 bolt as the pin with a nylon lock nut to hold it all together.
Had to do it this way as my pins had worn the hinge out so far the original bushings won't work anymore. These are much stronger and will last forever. Reassemble with the same amount of help with the bolts going in from the bottom. Adjust if necessary.
I didn't reuse the holding springs but theres a tool out there to reinstall them once all is adjusted.
Wish I had some pictures.......sorry,
Steve
Once the pins are out remove the door carefully. Watch the flying holding spring (I tied it up with wire before-hand. Once removed, the hinge/halfs are out in the open. Mark or drill small index holes through the hinges into the body or doors. I just scribbed mine. Once rebuilt, the halves can be reinstalled in the same location making adjustment allittle easier.
As for rebuilding the hinges, I didn't go with the replacement bushing and pin route. I went to our local hardware store and found flanged bronze bushings that were larger. 3/8" ID and 1/2" OD. Think the flange is slightly larger than 5/8" in diameter, had to file some of the thickness off. I drilled the outer half (hinge) out to 3/8" and the inner half to 1/2". I then used a 3/8" X 4 1/4" long, I think (no threads in the bushings) grade 8 bolt as the pin with a nylon lock nut to hold it all together.
Had to do it this way as my pins had worn the hinge out so far the original bushings won't work anymore. These are much stronger and will last forever. Reassemble with the same amount of help with the bolts going in from the bottom. Adjust if necessary.
I didn't reuse the holding springs but theres a tool out there to reinstall them once all is adjusted.
Wish I had some pictures.......sorry,
Steve
Guess I better correct myself. I used the original size bushings and pins in the lower hinges. I redrilled and used heavier pins and bushings for the top hinges as those seem to wear the worst. Sometimes the hinge is worn too far to reuse the original size bushings. I suppose one could weld and redrill, but I think these will outlast the doors.
The picture shows the top hinge with the bolt coming through from below and a nylon lock nut used to hold it all together. The brass bushing to the right is one I tried, and would work, but is kinda soft and would wear more quickly. I found bronze ones (same size) at the local hardware store that will last much longer. The outer flange diameter is 5/8" and needed to be filled slightly thinner. Inner ID is 3/8" and 1/2" OD. The bolt is a grade 8, long shank, roughly 4 1/8" long. The stock bushing is on the far right.
The lower bushings/pins are stock and go in just as the factory did.
Hope this helps,
Steve
The picture shows the top hinge with the bolt coming through from below and a nylon lock nut used to hold it all together. The brass bushing to the right is one I tried, and would work, but is kinda soft and would wear more quickly. I found bronze ones (same size) at the local hardware store that will last much longer. The outer flange diameter is 5/8" and needed to be filled slightly thinner. Inner ID is 3/8" and 1/2" OD. The bolt is a grade 8, long shank, roughly 4 1/8" long. The stock bushing is on the far right.
The lower bushings/pins are stock and go in just as the factory did.
Hope this helps,
Steve
well i had a friend come over and elp me today, and we got the doors off with no problem besides the passengers side the last bolt was a pain also when the jack gave out ha, but we did it. and no harm done to the door, also parts came in today so once its painted il start with the pin and bushings. i am surprised with dixiemontecarlo.com, summit parts took a week to come in and i only ordered last sunday night and dixies parts are already here. im pleased with their shipping.
Similar threads
