intake leak cause overheat?

[purple barney]

I had an intake on a sbc leaking. oil would come up through one of the intake bolt holes and puddle. I pulled the intake off and you could see the intake was not sealing due to the oil trail leading to the intake ports. my question is would this also cause the motor to over heat and puke fluid out of the radiator at 210 degrees? im leaning towards a head gasket issue . the compression is within 1 pound on each cylinder please help ](*,)

 

[purple barney]

no advice............. :-s

 

[t-money80]

Im having issues with my intake sealing , it also gets some oil around the center intake bolts, but its not overheating . Good Luck

 

[purple barney]

well i pulled the cylinder heads off and i could not find anything wrong with the head gaskets.. im thinking thier to new to tell if there was a problem with them. im going to have the heads checked for cracks today. im trying a different intake and gaskets to see if that makes a difference. any help again would be nice

 

[art]

Just some random thoughts. The over heating and the oil being pulled into the intake ports tell me the manifold is not sealing as you surmised. Which might be creating a lean condition causing your overheating. Another thing. Pushing coolant out is just expansion. A good cap and a recovery system are important if you don't use or have eliminated them. If the intake isn't sealing (assuming a sbc here), when you reinstall it, use rtv silicone instead of end gaskets. But before you do that, a question. Have the heads been milled more than a cleanup? If so, you may need to have the intake done as well. (milled) When its all back together, check your vaccuum. If it isn't within acceptable limits at idle, you may have timing issues which in turn lead to over heating. Without knowing the whole package/story it is a tricky thing to offer advice on. Check back and lemme know how it works out.

 

[purple barney]

plugs did not look like it was running lean so it's not that the only thing i did not check was the cap i was told that water will boil over at 210-212 degrees and that if i put a 15-17 pound cap it would keep the water from boiling until 230+. the heads have been milled but only a clean up to true the surfaces. i think the intake manifold i was running had somthing to do with that. timming was set at 18 inital and had not gotten to the advance yet i couldnt bring my rpms up. oh i also checked the hoses and replaced the radiator so i can check that off the list

 

[art]

Actually it could be a combination of things. Depending on the cam and heads you have, 18 deg initial might not be enough. I had a sbc that loved initial timing (38 degrees!). So I solved my overheating troubles with a 20 degree vaccum advance pot. Why couldn't you raise the rpms? Was it running that lousy? How long has the whole combination been together?
Seems like I have more questions than you do lol.....
And every pound of pressure the cap holds is worth roughly 3 degrees of boil over protection so a 10 lb cap should keep it from boiling til about 240 or so. You still need a recovery system IMHO.

 

[purple barney]

well i put the heads back on, new intake still same problem. i thought it might be cam timing. i pulled the balancer off when i noticed that the balancer was keyed at 30. this was a new balancer and the old was keyed at 0 #-o my old timing tab was way off so what i thought was 18 degrees was not right. this would explain the over heating issue and the no idle when i drop it in drive. i learned a lesson about check tdc with new balancer and old timing tab

 

[Al]

I'm guessing you sealed the center bolts on the intake?

 

[purple barney]

i changed intake gaskets to felpro 1205 and i always used a permetex thread sealer on intake bolts. running cheap intake gaskets is a mistake