so I've been off of here for the summer and has some questions about my setup. I'll start with fuel, most of the questions came from there. To refresh everyone, my 79 malibu has a 5.3L/4L60 setup and I did the fuel with all new parts.
I went with a FLGM307C tank from http://www.rockauto.com I chose this route because it's a new tank, it bolts right in, and it has the baffles inside the pump for the in-tank pump. Sender came from http://www.gbodyparts.com there's not really a part number, just scroll to buick, fuel, and it's a sender. I went with the aftermarket because it's like 1/2 the price of the GM one. fuel pump is this one http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/159020/10002/-1?parentProductId=1167182 I was a little leary of going with the jegs brand, but worry not... it says walbro on the bottom. Next, fittings for the new sender. I ran these http://www.jegs.com/p/Earls/Earls-Hard-Line-AN-Tube-Fittings/749418/10002/-1 in the 3/8 to -6 and the 5/16 to -6 so I could plumb the whole system in steel braided line (although I used the nylon braided to save a bit of weight, and simplify hose cutting). http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Fuel-Injection-Fittings/1287062/10002/-1 you'll need 3 of the 3/8 to -6 and one of the 5/16 to -6 of these to run the vette regulator and get into the fuel rail (they're listed as lt1 parts, they fit though). I had to file flat spots on one of the 5/16 and one of the 3/8 adapters to fit onto the vette filter/regulator. You'll also need a portion of 3/8 factory quick release fuel line to get into the outlet side of that filter/reg combo. dorman sold a 12" section to me from my local parts store. The best part for this setup is the filter/regulator. http://www.jegs.com/i/ACDelco-Motorcraft/037/GF822/10002/-1?parentProductId=1329871 this is the dealio. Inlets/outlets are 3/8", bypass is 5/16". It's a filter and regulator in one piece. I put mine on the framerail on the passenger side as close to the tank as I could get it, but still make it easy to replace. super sweet. I'll get pictures of all this stuff now. i've got the axle out of it to put in a 9" now, so I'll get some pictures of it up tonight.
Other deals with my setup is:
o CTS-V pan (tried H3T and truck pan, CTS-V is the best)
o BRP 1 7/8" headers (love em, literally art)
o iceman 4l60E x-member (really nice, have his rear control arms too, adjustable uppers/lowers)
o transdapt LS1 mounts with stock clams, 1" setback
o wait4meperformance wiring/computer (when you get this back it looks really intimidating, go slowly, and it'll work well)
o non a/c box rules for this swap. If I kept the A/C box, I'd probably do a coil relocate on that last passenger side coil.
Things I'm still working on perfecting:
o column shift working with 4L60 better. I'm thinking I'm going to go this way http://www.lokar.com/product-descriptions/col-cable-shift-link.htm why not use a ratchet shifter you ask? I have a bench seat that I like, and I really like to keep it as stock looking as possible.
o QP 9" going in now. I didn't break the 7.5, just looking to circumvent breaking it, and I want some deeper gears than the 2.73. I'm going to a 3.50 9" with locker.
o Gauges. meh. nuff said.
Things I've learned so far:
o overbuild, overbuild, overbuild. you'll want to squeeze more power out of this LSx world quickly. Make sure the rest of the car is ready for that.
o Everything should have relays and fuses. Here's a good way to get both of them in one kit. http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Electric-Fan-Wiring-Harness-Kits/758607/10002/-1 the "single fan" or "dual fan" setup for this is an easy way to get a circuit breaker and a relay, as well as the right size wire for high amperage stuff (fuel pump, fan, etc).
o make a budget, then double the price to account for weird stuff (wiring, headers, exhaust morphing, parts your donor engine will want/need before you stab it in, broken parts)
o go slowly, and do it right once.
o for the 5.3 crowd (red-headed stepchild), people are getting rid of stock ls1 stuff for way cheap, and it's a pretty decent upgrade for your stock 5.3. I got a stock ls1 cam (same as 6.0 cam) for $20, a stock vette converter (300-400 more stall over stock) for $35, stock ls1 intake for $10, and f body accessories and brackets for $100 including balancer.
Things I'll upgrade in the future
o more motor (duh, everything has to go faster). Likely a 383 out of an iron 5.3 block or aluminum 5.7 block, or a 403 out of an iron 6.0 block.
o T-56/upgrade 4L60???? kind of kicking this one around... it's nice having my coffee in the morning in my mug and not on my lap.
If you've got the engine on a stand, ready to go in, and you've got the pan off to change to the CTS-V:
o change the oil pump. these tend to stop working inexplicably. change it. cheap insurance.
o throw in a timing set, cheap insurance, again.
o think about upgrading the rockers (kind of expensive). This is required if you find needle bearings in the pan when you pull it. they're known for spitting the trunion bearings out of them.
I'll try and help anyone if I can. sorry I've been off of here for a while.
I went with a FLGM307C tank from http://www.rockauto.com I chose this route because it's a new tank, it bolts right in, and it has the baffles inside the pump for the in-tank pump. Sender came from http://www.gbodyparts.com there's not really a part number, just scroll to buick, fuel, and it's a sender. I went with the aftermarket because it's like 1/2 the price of the GM one. fuel pump is this one http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/159020/10002/-1?parentProductId=1167182 I was a little leary of going with the jegs brand, but worry not... it says walbro on the bottom. Next, fittings for the new sender. I ran these http://www.jegs.com/p/Earls/Earls-Hard-Line-AN-Tube-Fittings/749418/10002/-1 in the 3/8 to -6 and the 5/16 to -6 so I could plumb the whole system in steel braided line (although I used the nylon braided to save a bit of weight, and simplify hose cutting). http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Fuel-Injection-Fittings/1287062/10002/-1 you'll need 3 of the 3/8 to -6 and one of the 5/16 to -6 of these to run the vette regulator and get into the fuel rail (they're listed as lt1 parts, they fit though). I had to file flat spots on one of the 5/16 and one of the 3/8 adapters to fit onto the vette filter/regulator. You'll also need a portion of 3/8 factory quick release fuel line to get into the outlet side of that filter/reg combo. dorman sold a 12" section to me from my local parts store. The best part for this setup is the filter/regulator. http://www.jegs.com/i/ACDelco-Motorcraft/037/GF822/10002/-1?parentProductId=1329871 this is the dealio. Inlets/outlets are 3/8", bypass is 5/16". It's a filter and regulator in one piece. I put mine on the framerail on the passenger side as close to the tank as I could get it, but still make it easy to replace. super sweet. I'll get pictures of all this stuff now. i've got the axle out of it to put in a 9" now, so I'll get some pictures of it up tonight.
Other deals with my setup is:
o CTS-V pan (tried H3T and truck pan, CTS-V is the best)
o BRP 1 7/8" headers (love em, literally art)
o iceman 4l60E x-member (really nice, have his rear control arms too, adjustable uppers/lowers)
o transdapt LS1 mounts with stock clams, 1" setback
o wait4meperformance wiring/computer (when you get this back it looks really intimidating, go slowly, and it'll work well)
o non a/c box rules for this swap. If I kept the A/C box, I'd probably do a coil relocate on that last passenger side coil.
Things I'm still working on perfecting:
o column shift working with 4L60 better. I'm thinking I'm going to go this way http://www.lokar.com/product-descriptions/col-cable-shift-link.htm why not use a ratchet shifter you ask? I have a bench seat that I like, and I really like to keep it as stock looking as possible.
o QP 9" going in now. I didn't break the 7.5, just looking to circumvent breaking it, and I want some deeper gears than the 2.73. I'm going to a 3.50 9" with locker.
o Gauges. meh. nuff said.
Things I've learned so far:
o overbuild, overbuild, overbuild. you'll want to squeeze more power out of this LSx world quickly. Make sure the rest of the car is ready for that.
o Everything should have relays and fuses. Here's a good way to get both of them in one kit. http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Electric-Fan-Wiring-Harness-Kits/758607/10002/-1 the "single fan" or "dual fan" setup for this is an easy way to get a circuit breaker and a relay, as well as the right size wire for high amperage stuff (fuel pump, fan, etc).
o make a budget, then double the price to account for weird stuff (wiring, headers, exhaust morphing, parts your donor engine will want/need before you stab it in, broken parts)
o go slowly, and do it right once.
o for the 5.3 crowd (red-headed stepchild), people are getting rid of stock ls1 stuff for way cheap, and it's a pretty decent upgrade for your stock 5.3. I got a stock ls1 cam (same as 6.0 cam) for $20, a stock vette converter (300-400 more stall over stock) for $35, stock ls1 intake for $10, and f body accessories and brackets for $100 including balancer.
Things I'll upgrade in the future
o more motor (duh, everything has to go faster). Likely a 383 out of an iron 5.3 block or aluminum 5.7 block, or a 403 out of an iron 6.0 block.
o T-56/upgrade 4L60???? kind of kicking this one around... it's nice having my coffee in the morning in my mug and not on my lap.
If you've got the engine on a stand, ready to go in, and you've got the pan off to change to the CTS-V:
o change the oil pump. these tend to stop working inexplicably. change it. cheap insurance.
o throw in a timing set, cheap insurance, again.
o think about upgrading the rockers (kind of expensive). This is required if you find needle bearings in the pan when you pull it. they're known for spitting the trunion bearings out of them.
I'll try and help anyone if I can. sorry I've been off of here for a while.