Ed Cannon said:
TNTS79 said:
Having at least one set of adjustable control arms is worth the investment. I have double adjustable lowers and solid uppers with poly bushings with my 12 bolt. I cant remember exactly what mine was last time I measured it, its only been a month or so ago... We were trying to get my brothers 68 camaro lined out and I checked mine for reference. It was around 4 or 5 negative at the pinion I think? How are you launching the car? Loading the converter or flashing it? With 3.73's you car should be able to dead hook I would think. Mine has 56's and it can be a real pita to hook when the track isn't the best...
Well this issue has just popped up. I was getting solid 1.60's now is spinning. Just looking into things that might help. Also the track prep is zilch. But there's guys hooking up with peg legs on the same track #-o . I have never put it against the converter the most i have launched is about 1500 +/-. I usually bring it just off idle and nail it. Now that i'm spraying it, its even worse. I'm going back tomorrow I'm gonna lower the tires air pressure to about 13 or 14 and lower the air bag psi to about 8 and see how that does. Maybe do less of a burnout. Ive read a D/R doesn't need a huge burn out that it can get greasy and make it worse. ALSO can you set pinion angle with just adjustable lowers?
I typically bring mine up to about 1000 or 1100, just clean up the idle in the lights and "flash" the converter. I let my brother make a pass in it and he is more of the converter loader, he put it up about 1500 against the brakes and went 1.50 in the 60 and I typically go 1.51-1.53. Most likely because when I flash the converter it hits the tires a bit harder and gets just a little bit of tirespin. As for track prep I run mine on friday fun nights and track prep is always minimal at best. The crew tries to keep the track sticky but with all the radial tires peeling up the rubber that gets laid down its hard to get anything to hook! As for the guy running the peg leg and hooking, I have seen some cars do the same thing. Car makes just enough power not overpower the tires and the chassis flex so much they eat up a lot of the initial hit. As for adjusting pinion angle, if you made your lower control arms longer that would give you more negative pinion angle. If you had shorter upper control arms that would do the same thing, basically just rotating the rear end housing downward... Just have to make sure you dont get any binding issues by trying to make all your adjustment with one set of arms... Nice to have both upper and lower adjustables. I got my lowers from DM Products on ebay, not a site sponsor but they do make some good stuff($65). If you are putting the spray to it I would strongly suggest installing and anti-rotation, that will make the car much more predictable coming out of the hole and it really does do the trick for g-bodies. I had the 6 point bar installed in mine and it helped but the anti-rotation did more than the cage. You can get by with the bag but the bar is the solution to the problem. I got mine from ART its the professional series. Very nice piece by the way.
https://www.appliedracing.net/product_info.php?cPath=265&products_id=238&osCsid=7459e92794b433d82cabd840b5b954ad
That and a 1.5" od .100 wall tube between the frame rails and some TNT control arm braces and mine has made a big improvement over last year, thanks in part to the AFR's as well...
