Removing prop valve question.

[supreme81]

When you guy's installed the manual brake kit from Steel Concepts, it's recommended to remove prop valve. My question is; how did you guy's connect the brake line back together where the valve was? I was told to hook lines back together, front to front, rear to rear, and install 10lb residual valve in rear brake line. I'm wondering because I have two lines coming from M/C, ones for front, ones for the rear, coming out of prop valve two lines going to front brakes (one to each side), and one line going to rear. Was looking at the prop valve last night, and wanted some input from you guy's that have already done it. Thanks

 

[wiseman79]

In the front, use a metering valve, it will have one line in, 2 out. It will make your front and rear brakes activate together, without it the fronts will activate before the rears and make braking unstable. Also under light braking, only the fronts will activate and the rears won't if you don't run one. It's best to put the metering valve half way between the front brakes, so I mounted it on the back of the engine cradle.

In the rear, connect the lines together with the Wilwood residual pressure valve (get the Wilwood valve that comes with the adapters), also will need an adapter to mate up to the existing rear line (I got mine from advance).

 

[wiseman79]

Here's a diagram, I didn't use a proportioning valve as the Steel concepts MC is already setup for a 70/30 split. Also you won't need a 2 pound valve in the front, that's only used if your MC is below your calipers.

http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/images/pic02_brakefacts.gif

 

[Supe]

I had both my fronts going to the 2 line lock ports, and then the wilwood valve in line with the rears.

 

[n2oracer]

Who makes a connector to join the rear brake lines? On my 84 Regal the rear lines have 9/16"-18 threads. This is some kind of odd size. I can't find a union to join it together when I take the proportioning block off. Only thing I have came up with is to cut the line and reflare it using a standard size inverted flare nut for 1/4" tubing.

I don't want to chance that becoming a leak. I would also have to buy a tool to do the double flare. Anyone have any other ideas?

 

[wiseman79]

Only thing I have came up with is to cut the line and reflare it using a standard size inverted flare nut for 1/4" tubing.

That's what I did, I also found that Advance has the best selection of unions and brake line stuff, just gotta root through the disorganized box. A double flaring tool is ~$25 and is a good investment.

 

[Supe]

You can usually rent a double flare tool if need be from one of the parts places.

 

[78Camino]

Here's a diagram, I didn't use a proportioning valve as the Steel concepts MC is already setup for a 70/30 split. Also you won't need a 2 pound valve in the front, that's only used if your MC is below your calipers.

http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/images/pic02_brakefacts.gif

will that still work with rear disc brakes?

 

[wiseman79]

Here's a diagram, I didn't use a proportioning valve as the Steel concepts MC is already setup for a 70/30 split. Also you won't need a 2 pound valve in the front, that's only used if your MC is below your calipers.

http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/images/pic02_brakefacts.gif

will that still work with rear disc brakes?

For rear discs, you won't need the residual pressure valve, or the metering valve.