Stock suspension tricks high HP cars

[mwudel]

Ok are any of you guys that are running stock susp doing anything with the engine location up or down. This is a small tire turbo car that will make 1300 HP plus with a glide and i am thinking 3.70 is gear. Car works very well at the old power level but just want a little help from the fast guys on the "insider" tricks front, rear and engine location. looking to run very low 8's on a 295 DR or 29x10 slick.


Thanks

Mark

 

[DB]

Stock engine location here. Plenty heavy on the nose to with the turbo and intercooler. It's all in the converter, tire, gear and instant center. You gotta hit the tire and get after it. There's no easy answer because every car is different. I got after mine until it started standing up then limited the front travel. I had stock front springs, junky Comp engineering shocks on the front and ran 5.0's. Now I have the TRZ uppers and lowers to save weight and some better shocks. You have to play with the ride height to get the instant center where you need it to plant the tire or you have to have some adjustments on the rear housing. TRZ is working on a bolt in 9" rear to allow these adjustments.

 

[mwudel]

seems like you have your car working well!! What kind of HP do you think your making.



My ride hieght is fairly low have not looked at the lower bar angle in a long time becasue it worked well and i never messed with it. This is just a whole new level of power for me with the little tire. Have been in the sevens on a 14x32 in a chassis car but like i said whole different ball game here. Thanks for the input i am sure i will need all the help i can get.

Thanks

Mark

 

[DB]

I'm making between 1700-1800hp and I run on a 325/50 radial. Went 1.26 60' and 4.96 at 149. It's been a best of 1.23 60'.

What rear are you using? With the 8.5's you need the ride height really low to move the instant center down and to the rear. Moving the lower arm down on the rear housing will move the instant center back but it also moves it up and can hit the tire too hard. You'll know this if the car has to much seperation on launch.

You have to find that point where you get a little seperation but not hit the tire too hard. Once you get it to move 10-15 feet you gotta pour the power on to keep the weight transfered. If the nose settles and then you loose traction, you need more power or you'll have to lower the launch rpm. You have to bring the power on quickly. If the nose ever settles it will unload the tires. Keeping it working from track to track is the hard part. Too much power and it spins at the hit. Not enough power and you spin 30 feet out. But all this is no good if the suspension is not set up properly.

 

[mwudel]

9 inch rear have not swaped the gear yet not real sure what to go with. Will be a PTC converter i think, have heard nothing but good about them. Have the 7531 box and either the AMS 1000 or the prologger for boost control. Turbo is a precisssion 106 so i will have all the boost that this motor will ever handle (good parts just a stock block). Just making the swith so the new motor will come out after i get a handle on all the fuel and electronics. Then we can really poor the boost to it.

Thanks

mark

 

[DB]

I run a 3.70 gear. The AMS 1000 is the way to go, no doubt about that.

I'll PM you my cell #. When you get ready for a converter call me. I'm PTC's largest distributor and will get you what you need. I've tested at least 5 different converters for them in my car.

 

[malibulvr]

I'm making between 1700-1800hp and I run on a 325/50 radial. Went 1.26 60' and 4.96 at 149. It's been a best of 1.23 60'.

What rear are you using? With the 8.5's you need the ride height really low to move the instant center down and to the rear. Moving the lower arm down on the rear housing will move the instant center back but it also moves it up and can hit the tire too hard. You'll know this if the car has to much seperation on launch.

You have to find that point where you get a little seperation but not hit the tire too hard. Once you get it to move 10-15 feet you gotta pour the power on to keep the weight transfered. If the nose settles and then you loose traction, you need more power or you'll have to lower the launch rpm. You have to bring the power on quickly. If the nose ever settles it will unload the tires. Keeping it working from track to track is the hard part. Too much power and it spins at the hit. Not enough power and you spin 30 feet out. But all this is no good if the suspension is not set up properly.

Do you have a pic that you could post of your car and the way it sits with the 325 drag radials.

 

[DB]

 

[darius smith]

man i'm drooling you got me going to play the lotto. i want a turbo now

 

[slimbo]

thats a bad machine right there...