TH350 Frt Pump Body Bushing

[gmtofd]

Having a major leak out by the tc, pulled the trans out to do a pump seal replacement, and after removing the seal noticed a large groove going across the entire width of the pump body bushing, that suppose was done by the last guy that changed the seal or a prior rebuild.

The question is: how hard to pull the pump from the case, in order to disassembly the pump to r&r the bushing?
Looking at the various manuals around the house, it says to use two slide hammers, which I don't have.

Once the pump is removed from the case, what other seals and such should be replaced besides the large square cut pump body to case "o" ring and front pump to case gasket?

Thanks for any responses.

 

[gmtofd]

Been checking around on such, and was considering just swapping pumps, but was told that there's a end play clearance tolerance to be concerned. Switching pumps may result in going out of tolerance on this clearance.

Has anyone out there actually pulled one of these pumps and serviced it?

 

[grizwald]

i was given a turbo 350 trans and decided to tear it apart just to see if i could learn more about how a transmission acutally works. i checked to see about getting the puller we have here at the shop to remove the pump and was told that if you take the filter off, there's a little opening that you can stick a pry bar in and pop the pump out. the only opening i saw exposed the discs behind the pump..so i gently pried those forward and the pump came out with no problems at all.

the puller is just a flat solid piece of steel with 2 holes that lign up with the bolt holes on the pump. it sits against the end of the input shaft and has 2 bolts that go through to the pump. as you tighten them, it pulls the pump out. it would be pretty easy to make, i would think.

 

[Anonymous]

The pump can be pried out from the outside. Take all the bolts out, you'll see a couple of holes in the pump are actually threaded for the next size up bolt. Put two bolts into those threaded holes and use a pry bar to slowly work the pump out of the case. Once it breaks free it is easy to come out.

If you want to do it, you should stand the transmission up on end. I used to take the tail housing off and slide the output shaft down through a hole in a milk crate (so the transmission case is resting on the crate and the output shaft is hanging free). Then, take a dial guage and check the end play on the input shaft before you unbolt the pump.

After you get the pump out, you'll see a some shims (maybe one, maybe more), save those, put all back in with the new pump and check the end play again. Don't remember what the end play is supposed to be, been too long, but a good book or someone else on here can tell you. Auto parts store should have a shim kit for additional shims if needed.

 

[gmtofd]

Thanks a lot for the info.

Talked to CK and he warned to remove the pan and do something to hold the direct clutch or whatever else is behind the pump from also coming out.

 

[grizwald]

X2 on standing the trans on its end. i did it while it was laying on its side on my workbench...again...this was a research experiment

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks a lot for the info.

Talked to CK and he warned to remove the pan and do something to hold the direct clutch or whatever else is behind the pump from also coming out.

If you stand it on end, you don't have to worry about anything coming out or falling out and you do NOT have to remove the pan. It's actually quite easy, pull the pump and the shims, clean the gasket off the case, put in the new gasket and pump/shims.

 

[gmtofd]

Thanks again.

In case we r&r the pump and clecki the input shaft for end clearance, before removing the pump. Just hook up a dial indicator and force the output shaft up, or some how grab the input shaft and force it up?

It's my son's project, he's bucks down, don't want to have me just take it to my trans guy to make it right, and wants to go on and make the actual repair to the pump, r&ring the bushing. I know that to reassemble them, there's an alignment issue, see speciality tools on the web for clamping around the pump's od , sort of like a ring compressor type of deal. Seen a Car Craft article on the web where they reverse the pump on the imput shaft to tighten the 5 bolts that hold it together.

Any one out there actually rebuild one of these pumps? Is it a matter of just being careful with all the springs and what not when reassembling?

Thanks.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks again.

In case we r&r the pump and clecki the input shaft for end clearance, before removing the pump. Just hook up a dial indicator and force the output shaft up, or some how grab the input shaft and force it up?

It's my son's project, he's bucks down, don't want to have me just take it to my trans guy to make it right, and wants to go on and make the actual repair to the pump, r&ring the bushing. I know that to reassemble them, there's an alignment issue, see speciality tools on the web for clamping around the pump's od , sort of like a ring compressor type of deal. Seen a Car Craft article on the web where they reverse the pump on the imput shaft to tighten the 5 bolts that hold it together.

Any one out there actually rebuild one of these pumps? Is it a matter of just being careful with all the springs and what not when reassembling?

Thanks.

Put the dial indicator on the end of the input shaft and pull the shaft up by hand to guage the end play. If you need to, put a good pair of vice grips on the shaft splines and use the VG to pull the shaft up and down. Do not try to push up on the output shaft, even if it moves the input, that won't give you an accurate reading.

You can do what you said with the five bolts, and you don't need a special tool. The only thing you can do is check the inside of the pump surfaces for scratches, gouges, check the two pump gears for wear, and replace the bushing. For me, it was always worth the money to just buy a new pump and swap it. They weren't much back when I was racing. TCI has them for less than $100:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-313400/

 

[Bar50]

The end play is changed with different thickness shims and or thicker thrush washers. Any good transmission supply house will have a book and the shims and thrush washers. (.005, .010, .025, .030 etc) If you stop there you should be okay. You can hold/stick the gaskets in place with trans-gel or vaseline. Swab some on all the sealing rings on the back side of the pump, lube the pump where you took it apart to change the bushing, lube the gears in the pump. The rings on the pump will hold the shims/thrush washers in place.

***The pump needs to be concentric or centered when you bolt it back together the cheap home made tool for this will be a huge hose clamp from the heat and air place, unless you want to spring the $$$ for the tool.

If you are taking the front pump apart, check how deep the pump gears are, if they are worn, you can get the next size thicker gears, seems like there are 7 or 8 different thickness ones to choose from.

Turn the pump upside down in a coffee can, with the gaskets & o-rings off, put the bolts in loose, set the hose clamp around it and snug it up, then tighten the bolts, its best to have the piston/pressure plate/spings in place. Otherwise, it will leak, and will be a bear to get into the case, like it might strip out the bolt holes if you try to pull it in with the front pump bolts.

No silicone...its evil to an automatic transmision.

You really out to replace the pilot shaft bushing, I have had lots of luck with the teflon ones, well, in drag car abuse anyway. That will be a little more in depth.

If you have any other questions, email me, I used to me a transmission guy before I became a paramedic firefighter. I can try to put it into words to make it easier, might even have some pics.