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"How-to"--add Keyless Entry using GM parts--

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87SS-ZZ3
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"How-to"--add Keyless Entry using GM parts--

Post by 87SS-ZZ3 » Sat Oct 18, 2014 4:26 pm

After driving my newer cars, one of the things I miss most on the Malibu is RKE (Remote Keyless Entry). Since my Malibu has power locks and trunk release, I decided it was going to get RKE. I looked at several aftermarket kits but after many years in the dealership, I grew to despise them. Not to mention they were expensive and had stupid looking remotes. I looked at multiple wiring diagrams and decided on the 97-01 Chevy Lumina. There were just over 1.1M produced from 95-01 so finding one in a salvage yard is not a challenge. I went with the 97 up because that was the year the remote switched to the oval instead of the less effective rectangle design. You can also find the same module in same year Monte Carlos. Other W bodies share a similar design but the wiring is different than what I am going to show.

Search:
1. Locate a donor car with RKE. The RPO code on the SPID label on the underside of the trunk is AU0. The module is INSIDE the car just to the right of the right rear speaker UNDER the package tray carpet. It's attached with Velcro so just pull it off. Disconnect the connector and push it into the trunk.

2. Go inside the trunk and pull down on the harness. There is a programming connector that is taped on the taillight harness just under the carpet on the right of the trunk. Split open the harness wrap and try to keep this wire in one piece. Give yourself 12 to 18 inches of wire and cut the harness connector out of the trunk. More wont hurt if you can pull it to you. My module and harness cost me just under $25 without the key fob. They were no where to be found in anything on the yard.

Install:
1. Almost every connection can be made at the Right Front kick panel where the door lock relay is located. I spliced my wires with butt connectors because I hate a Scotch Lock. If you look close at the module connector, you will see letters that label the cavities in the connector. I'll list them by letter, color, function, where to splice (SP-)

A. Tan, not used (I'll explain why later)
B. White, unlock control to relay, SP- Black wire on Lock relay
C. none
D. none
E. Orange, Batt +, SP- Orange/Black wire on Lock relay
F. Light Green, Trunk release, SP- Pink wire on trunk switch
G. Gray, Trunk release, SP- Black wire on switch
H. Black/White, not used
J. Pink, Switched IGN voltage, Run to fuse block to a Switched IGN source
K. none
L. Black/White (smaller gauge than H), programming connector
M. none
N. Black, Ground, add ring terminal and ground under screw for relay
P. none
R. Light Blue, lock control to relay, SP- Light Blue wire on Lock relay
S. Dark Blue, Illuminated entry (interior lamp control), SP- White wire from door jamb switch

Your colors should be the same except for maybe the trunk release. Mine was an add-on but check your power at the switch with a test light. F is power into the module and G is power to the trunk Solenoid.

2. After all connections are made, test the system. Attach a ground wire to the programming connector and the locks and trunk should cycle. If not, go back and check your connections.
3. Locate your remote. Part numbers: 16245103, 16207901, 16207903 are listed as correct for the module I used. There may be others. With the programming connector still grounded, hold down LOCK and UNLOCK until the locks cycle again (may take up to 30 sec). Do this for all the remotes you want to add (one after another, up to 4). Remove the ground and test.

One press of the UNLOCK should turn on the interior lights. A second press should unlock all doors. The LOCK and TRUNK functions should be pretty straight forward. The TAN wire we didnt use is for cars where the Left front door is wired separate from the others. This would allow for the first press to just unlock the Left front door and turn on the lights. I didnt want to cut more wires and run them elsewhere so one press works the lights only.

4. Wrap up the wiring and zip-tie the module up behind the dash next to the AC vent. My range is at least 30 feet in an open yard.

If you have any questions, comments or corrections, let me know and I'll try to help.

Mess of Wires by Relay:
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Module
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Key Fob:
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Connector Pics:
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Wiring Diagrams:
Malibu
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Lumina
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1978 Malibu, LT1/T56 build thread
1996 Impala SS - Sold
2009 G8 GT 6.0L 6speed auto

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malibulvr
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Re: "How-to"--add Keyless Entry using GM parts--

Post by malibulvr » Sun Oct 19, 2014 9:01 pm

Very nice write up. I see your car has the factory power door locks, but I'm guessing this could also be made to work with with aftermarket lock actuators .
'79 Malibu
6.0LS/TH400
G/N 8.5 w/4.10 's

87SS-ZZ3
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Re: "How-to"--add Keyless Entry using GM parts--

Post by 87SS-ZZ3 » Sun Oct 19, 2014 9:07 pm

I don't see why it wouldn't work with any actuator as long as it is controlled by a relay. The module can't handle the high current directly except on the tan wire.
1978 Malibu, LT1/T56 build thread
1996 Impala SS - Sold
2009 G8 GT 6.0L 6speed auto

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Doober
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Re: "How-to"--add Keyless Entry using GM parts--

Post by Doober » Mon Oct 20, 2014 4:44 am

Sticky :D
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87SS-ZZ3
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Re: "How-to"--add Keyless Entry using GM parts--

Post by 87SS-ZZ3 » Mon Oct 20, 2014 8:35 pm

Someone told me about a similar thread over on the Monte Carlo site. I checked it out and we both had the same idea. To give jman093 credit, I went back and used his pics to help locate the placement of the Tan splice. That wire that should control the unlock on the first button press but I didn't dig far enough. Turns out the splice is actually in the connector for the harness that goes into the passenger door. Mine was tucked down in the body of the kick panel. After digging it out and cutting out the wire for the left door, there was only one extra wire to connect to the module. Now the left door unlocks on the first press. ...Never to old to learn something.
1978 Malibu, LT1/T56 build thread
1996 Impala SS - Sold
2009 G8 GT 6.0L 6speed auto

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