6 point cage pricing

AVENGER79

Daily Driver
Oct 22, 2018
38
4
8
so called a local fab shop to have a 6 point cage put in the Monte.

Interior is out, fuel tank is out. headliner is in. they want to remove the liner themselves so they can judge how much clearance is needed for bars.

using DOM steel, they quoted $2700-2800.

seem fair?

honestly I thought it would be closer to 1500 but I haven't had one done before.
 

TURNA

MalibuRacing Junkie
Jul 6, 2003
6,028
1
38
Socialist NY
Honestly I dont know.

But that seems kind of high especially since the car is already gutted
 

AVENGER79

Daily Driver
Thread starter
Oct 22, 2018
38
4
8
kind of what I was thinking. Maybe I'll check around and see if I can find anyone else in the area.
 

prairiehotrodder

Pro Stocker
Dec 17, 2005
1,576
4
38
46
Melfort Saskatchewan Canada
I'd go right to a 10 point. Yes that price sounds high but i've always done it myself so i don't know what others charge.
 

AVENGER79

Daily Driver
Thread starter
Oct 22, 2018
38
4
8
prairiehotrodder said:
I'd go right to a 10 point. Yes that price sounds high but i've always done it myself so i don't know what others charge.

that was my initial plan as well. I have a very highly skilled welder available. I got a bit nervous about how to actually install the cage. I used to work in fabrication but that was a lifetime ago. LOL

does your cage weld to the floor or the frame or both? doing it myself "w/friend" I was going to go with a Rhodes 8 point. it looks like the plates of that cage weld to the floor.
 

prairiehotrodder

Pro Stocker
Dec 17, 2005
1,576
4
38
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Melfort Saskatchewan Canada
in a malibu you must cut a hole through the floor and weld all your down bars directly to the frame. Then fill in the holes with sheet metal when you are done. Its about twice as much work as a mustang. I've personally built three 6 point roll bars and one 10 point. Its an art that improves with practice. I've used CE kits for all my jobs. I am happy with them. On a malibu you have to decide what you want to do with the dash if you are going to a 10 point. I kept the stock dash in my car and put the front down bars just behind the dash (not through the dash) I'm kinda disappointed in it and if i was to do it again i might ditch the stock dash and build the cage up tight to the pillars and build a sheet aluminum dash afterwards.
Brian
 

AVENGER79

Daily Driver
Thread starter
Oct 22, 2018
38
4
8
maybe I will give it a shot. stay tuned for more questions LOL

by CE you mean Competition Engineering? I was looking at Rhodes Racing
 

prairiehotrodder

Pro Stocker
Dec 17, 2005
1,576
4
38
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Melfort Saskatchewan Canada
different companies roll cage kits differ in the style of halo bar they use. The CE kits use a bar that comes all the way from the main hoop, along the top of the door opening then down the front of the door to the floor. Then a short bar across at your forehead. This forehead bar needs to be bent in my opinion. It needs small bends on each end to get it up closer to the roof and away from your head. Other kits use a true halo bar. I like the CE design other than having to do those 2 bends. I also put bends on the rear bars so they go through the floor straight up and down rather than at an angle. This makes them much easier to install. But you need a Bender. I bought the JD2 model 3.
 

prairiehotrodder

Pro Stocker
Dec 17, 2005
1,576
4
38
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Melfort Saskatchewan Canada
another thing to consider is if you want to do any restoration work on your frame or install new body bushings. Do these things BEFORE a roll bar install. Afterwards there is NO getting the body off the frame.
Brian
 

AVENGER79

Daily Driver
Thread starter
Oct 22, 2018
38
4
8
thanks for the info. I had thought about the body bushings etc, going to give them a good look in the next couple weeks.

I will probably stick to the 6 point cage. I doubt I would run the car enough or fast enough to need the 10. mostly looking to make it a street/strip kind of thing.
 

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