Horsepwraddict said:
78'Bu-88SS said:
You would be surprised how much different lubricants affect the torque reading. Always clean the bolt and nut good w/ parts cleaner, then either use 30wt oil or moly assembly lube. Torque specs are given using particular lubes and to get an accurate torque, the proper lube must be used with that spec. If the given torque is 45ftlbs using 30wt oil, use 30wt. If you use a slicker moly, that 45ftlbs would be significantly different.
The bigger the torque wrench the more usuable torque you are creating. It might seem easier to to but 45ftlbs is 45ftlbs. Basically, the longer the handle, the less force you need to apply to create the same torque.
when i get my stretch guage i plan on doing a little testing/comparing, ive always been curious to see how torque vs. stretch figures compare.
And as far as a big torque wrench goes, i know that torque is torque and a longer handle will provide more leverage. You cant argue that it plays with your mind a little bit when you barely pull on it and it clicks off though. I need to invest in a lower rated 3/8's drive TW.
Haha I hear ya. Id say if you are using stock hardware, just use rebuild specs based on that. There really isnt a whole lot of variation between the two. Somewhere on the torque spec chart or in the manual its gotta say what to use as a lube. Me personally, Id use 30wt oil on stock hardware, and ARPs supplied moly lube on there hardware.
I forget where I was reading it but if you use a stretch gauge to tighten down a fastener then use a torque wrench to remove it, it requires a lot more torque then spec. Alot of this probably comes down to the lube. When I put together a motor, I usually torque the fastener slightly more then spec because of this.
Erik, this motor for the S10? Whats the specs on it? You told me once but I forget lol. What are you doing for a rear end? Hint hint I "may" have some 7.5 parts for sale soon if I convince my dad to go 9".