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I'm assuming that the pictures are of the passenger side upper. Will there be a sleeve over the bolt shown? Can (should?) the kit optionally be welded in? Norm

There's quite a bit of chassis tech in that post that is going to be new to lots of folks here - and even when people know that a given fix "works", the reason why it works is not always obvious to everyone. But knowing why is the key to getting better/smarter/more successful at this stuff...

The only real difference between what the OE's and cornering enthusiasts call (variously) a stabilizer bar, "sta-bar", antiroll bar, or more informally as a "swaybar", and what the drag strip enthusiast knows as an antiroll bar is the stiffness of the bar in question. How the bar is...

Normally, all you need is the shock make (and perhaps model) and your car year/make/model. But if you've got significantly stiffer front springs (as in over 600 lb/in) on these G-bodies, I think the front shocks from some years of 2WD S10 may work a little better. Norm

If you haven't bought shocks already . . . liquid's advice is good. While KYB (I'm assuming Gas-A-Justs here) can handle those springs, the Bilsteins will do so at least as well, while giving you a better ride. GR-2's are OE-replacement or maybe half a step better, and not really up to the...

If the car is now a V6, you'll probably want slightly stiffer springs. Much beyond that requires knowing what you mean by "work good" (general performance, general confort, just DD, dragstrip, hard cornering of any sort, etc.), and if "good" means "good enough is OK" or "I can afford to look at...

Just off the top of my head, I'd guess it would be related to the number of turns required to steer the front wheels between the same positions. Assuming same wheels/tires/alignment settings. IOW, if the manual S10 takes 3.0 turns to steer from 25° right to 25° left, and the rack & pinion does...

It's still in production and is currently being used in the S197 (2005 - up) V8 Mustangs (although as a 3-link/PHB rather than a triangulated 4-link). Norm

Nothing yet, as I'm not making enough power, getting enough traction, or starting hard enough for there to be much risk. Work is running a little slow, so I might try to wing something quick and dirty. I'd like to throw it at ANSYS, but that's not on any computer I can get at. Without any...

The current GT500 Mustang ships with 18 x 9.5 (same as Z06 front) for front and rear (though the front and rear tire sizes differ), and that size fits all of the other Mustang sub-models. Norm

I did get the car weighed, and I think it was 34xx without me in it. Haven't seen the paper with the numbers in years, though. Maybe I have it in a little spreadsheet somewhere. The 88A stuff does not give an unpleasant ride. Firmer, yes. Guess it depends on individual tolerance for NVH...

Yeah. Mine would still double as a daily-driver though. I do have a light-duty trailer hitch (that has done more than "light duty" a couple of times). Yup. The primary intent was to make the front sta-bar more effective, but a noticeable reduction in chassis vibrations was a nice surprise...

Chassis Original F41 car with the braces Extra nonstandard front crossmember 88A poly body bushings in most locations Springs - Moog 5660 front (~640 lb/in), 5413 rear (~165 lb/in), not trimmed Shocks - Bilstein HD, S10 front, G-body rear (IIRC) Sta-bar, front - 32mm front, poly chassis bracket...

My before/after experience with installing poly bushings in the LCAs was that the head-toss was clearly noticeable. Yes, it cornered slightly flatter, but that does not necessarily mean better (it's how you achieve your flatter cornering that means more than just cornering flatter). I then...

I don't believe that you are making nearly enough power to warrant boxing the LCAs, so all you'd be doing is giving water and other road crud places to collect in. If you aren't almost pulling the left front tire off the ground on launch, this mod is of very limited value. Replacing the...

If the steering arm (outer tierod pivot point, actually) is in the same place (in 3-D) relative to the ball joints as on the OE knuckle, I don't think there's any toe change involved. That's the pure geometry model. It's also something of an "if". But since the forces coming in through the...

Guess I should have posted wheel/tire info. Wheels are 15 x 8.5 with (IIRC) -13 mm offset (a little over 4.25" backspace), all around. Tires have been 245/50 but were 225/60 in the picture. I did have to do a little clearancing on the lips of the UCAs outboard and behind the upper ball...

Hoping that the picture works, here's what 640 lb/in front springs, 165-ish rear springs, 32mm front and 22mm rear bars (both OE F41) do for my car in a pretty serious turn. In addition to those specs, I have replaced most of the body mounts with 88A poly, upgraded the front endlinks with...

The OE rear sta-bar (sway bar) in these cars is not really there to reduce roll. Mostly it is there to modify the understeer/oversteer balance by other means. Having it permits a larger front sta-bar which is far more effective in reducing roll. Panhard bars will locate the axle laterally...

Drop spindles do not affect control arm inclinations, but they do reduce the amount of available bump travel before tires meet fenders/fenderwells (think: hard braking at the end of your run - or anywhere for that matter). Soft "Trick Springs" will only make that more likely. Front shocks that...