bumper prep

402malbu

New Member
Jun 8, 2010
3
0
0
i want to paint my bumpera ,the crome is not pealing but starting to fade what steps do i take to paint them ,can i leave them in primer until i paint the car. cool.gif
 

westexun

Frequent Racer
Dec 27, 2008
528
0
0
Saw an episode of Musclecar a while back where the guy said the best process he had found was to scrub the bumper down with red scotchbrite, (I'd use Comet with it to clean everything), sprayed adhesion promoter then epoxy primer then the paint. He used all HOK products, sure they payed for the advertising that day, but there's lots of AP's out there, Bulldog is another and you can get it at walmart. If you want to go straight to paint with any block sanding that would probably be a good process, if you want to block the primer out for a little flatter finish I'd blast it then put epoxy down followed buy some high build primer then block that before paint. I've had lifting issues with Bulldog in the past if you try to reaply something over a break thru the featheredge will want to lift from the solvents in the paint or primer. I wouldn't recomend using the AP if you plan on blocking it flat for that reason.
 

melloelky

Top Fueler
Jul 1, 2009
3,654
31
48
mass
westexun said:
Saw an episode of Musclecar a while back where the guy said the best process he had found was to scrub the bumper down with red scotchbrite, (I'd use Comet with it to clean everything), sprayed adhesion promoter then epoxy primer then the paint. He used all HOK products, sure they payed for the advertising that day, but there's lots of AP's out there, Bulldog is another and you can get it at walmart. If you want to go straight to paint with any block sanding that would probably be a good process, if you want to block the primer out for a little flatter finish I'd blast it then put epoxy down followed buy some high build primer then block that before paint. I've had lifting issues with Bulldog in the past if you try to reaply something over a break thru the featheredge will want to lift from the solvents in the paint or primer. I wouldn't recomend using the AP if you plan on blocking it flat for that reason.
good point,you gotta think that somethingt other than a mechnical adhesion is a joke.if this stuff was any good at all their would be a world of tech sheets out there telling you how to use this garbage with every product under the sun.their are people still putting smoothie in paint out there! stick with skuffing the chrome with a da with 80grit atleast if sandblasting isn't an option.using those black magic AP type products keep me up at night,sand the chrome so the shine is gone and hit it with two coats of epoxy followed by some high build primer and rest easy knowing that their is no bubble gum-duct tape witches brew holding your paint on.
 

monte ss496

Dragway Regular
May 23, 2010
1,358
0
0
western mass
i wouldnt let the guy on muscle car paint my lawnmower!!
 

john01374

Daily Driver
Jun 16, 2009
14
0
0
I took a DA to mine with 400 grit and went all the way to bare metal. 3 coats of duplicolor etching primer and some semi gloss black bumper paint. It's been on for 4 yrs now and still looks as good as the day I did it..
 

79malibu350

New Member
Aug 24, 2010
3
0
0
red scuff pad or 400 grit da, either will do fine. the most important part is to get a good self etching primer. thats where your adhesion comes from. you can use an adhesion promoter if you want to, but we used to call that stuff "the death spray", at least the dupont and valspar versions, so dont use it in a confined, non-ventilated area if you havent got to painting them yet.
 

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