Has anyone else...

[Doober]

Considered cutting/welding new upper control arm mounts for rearends that don't match the factory G-Body rear angle? I've had the idea for quite a while, just never posted about it. This way there wouldn't be any binding of the upper suspension anymore.

Just a thought 8)

 

[LS6 Tommy]

If you mean making it a true straight 4 link instead of a triangulated 4 link, you'll need to add either a Watts linkage or a Panhard bar to eliminate lateral axle movement. Fay's2 makes what is arguably the best kits for Watts linkages. Anyway, it's not impossible nor is it rocket science, but you'd need to plot the upper & lower arm angles to set up IC, anti-squat, CG, blah, blah, blah... IMO it would be less time consuming (& very possibly cheaper) to just get some kind of spherical bearings on braced stock or preferrably aftermarket, arms. Bind would be more or less completely gone.

Here's Fay's2's G-body kit:

http://fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_23_.html

Tommy

 

[Doober]

True, I've just heard differing opinions on spherical joints vs. regular style. The rear in question is a B-Body 8.5", they're much more plentiful than a G-Body, and if the width is shortened to stock G-Body length, I don't really see any difference in the two. I remember sometime back someone said they opened up the pair of holes on the stock upper arms to accept a bolt for the upper ears, and were able to basically bolt a B-Body rear right in, but I'm not 100% on that. If that's the case, it would probably still be cheaper to buy one & have it shortened than to find an actual G-Body 8.5.