Just Disgusted With Rust-Oleum Spray Paint (rant)

malicad

Dragway Regular
Dec 8, 2009
1,383
0
0
South Milwaukee, WI
Never again will I purchase any of this crap. I just finished a project piece (aluminum), and pained it with Rust-Oleum's 2X paint. I media blasted the piece to make sure it had good tooth. Wiped it down with Duplicolor's wax and grease remover. Used their 2X black primer TO THE LETTER and when it was dry (according to the instructions) wet sanded to give a better finished product (400 grit). Topcoated with their semi gloss black following EXACTLY the time specified for any additional coats. Not rocket science here. Here's the thing...waited 2 weeks for the part to dry (harden) and assembled the piece today. When I was handling it, I noticed a small scratch what would be completely visible when installed, so I "tested" scratching another spot that wouldn't be. Left marks. When I previously used Rust-Oleum's paint from a can (quarts) to paint my floorpan after they were welded in to my Malibu, it literally took about 7 months for it to harden to the point where my nails wouldn't leave marks. I'm so sick of this company's products. I will never use anything Rust-Oleum again. Now, I have to completely disassemble my dashboard, de-solder a ton of connectors, and probably have the piece powdercoated instead of painted. Does anybody know of a GOOD spray paint that actually hardens and looks good? Valspar, Krylon?? What do you use?? Thanks!! ](*,)
 

Mike

Pro Stocker
May 27, 2003
1,707
0
36
New York
Once the VOC laws came into play the rattle can paints turned to junk. When I redid the front end of my wagon I used SEM Hot Rod Black on almost everything. I also used Duplicolor engine enamel on some of the smaller detailed parts like tie rod ends, pittman arm and shocks. EVERYTHING painted with that paint has rusted. I have to redo all of it the minute the car comes back from the body shop. I hate doing things twice.
 

LS6 Tommy

MalibuRacing Junkie
May 15, 2004
15,848
0
36
North Jersey
I'm confused. You say you're disgusted with Rustoleum, but then tell us how you used Duplicolor's products...

Tommy
 

malicad

Dragway Regular
Dec 8, 2009
1,383
0
0
South Milwaukee, WI
LS6 Tommy said:
I'm confused. You say you're disgusted with Rustoleum, but then tell us how you used Duplicolor's products...

Tommy
??? I said I used Duplicolor's wax and grease remover, which is basically acetone. I don't use Duplicolor's paints...learned my lesson there, too. Painted numerous engines with that stuff, and while it covers well and looks nice, there is no lasting quality there. I wonder why those car shows on Spike (Muscle Car and Detroit Muscle) use a ton of Duplicolor products. Go see those cars after a couple years. Paint will probably be peeling.
 

1981Regal

Dragway Regular
Mar 10, 2008
1,274
0
0
Cincinnati, Ohio
Hmm I just thought that's what they do peel and crack. I've never had any engine paint last unless it just sits like a museum piece.
 

malicad

Dragway Regular
Dec 8, 2009
1,383
0
0
South Milwaukee, WI
:lol:
I've heard of people using actual automotive paint (2 part) for engines. Would that stuff actually hold up to high temps like that? If that's the case, Eastwood has those 2K rattle cans for around 20 bucks each that is as good as paint from a professional gun (so they say).
 

LS6 Tommy

MalibuRacing Junkie
May 15, 2004
15,848
0
36
North Jersey
malicad said:
LS6 Tommy said:
I'm confused. You say you're disgusted with Rustoleum, but then tell us how you used Duplicolor's products...

Tommy
??? I said I used Duplicolor's wax and grease remover, which is basically acetone. I don't use Duplicolor's paints...learned my lesson there, too. Painted numerous engines with that stuff, and while it covers well and looks nice, there is no lasting quality there. I wonder why those car shows on Spike (Muscle Car and Detroit Muscle) use a ton of Duplicolor products. Go see those cars after a couple years. Paint will probably be peeling.

I got thrown off by your statement "Wiped it down with Duplicolor's wax and grease remover. Used their 2X black primer TO THE LETTER and when it was dry (according to the instructions) wet sanded to give a better finished product (400 grit). Topcoated with their semi gloss black following EXACTLY the time specified for any additional coats."

I understand what you meant now.

Tommy
 

81classic

Top Fueler
Jun 5, 2003
2,833
0
0
North Port, Fl
malicad said:
:lol:
I've heard of people using actual automotive paint (2 part) for engines. Would that stuff actually hold up to high temps like that? If that's the case, Eastwood has those 2K rattle cans for around 20 bucks each that is as good as paint from a professional gun (so they say).

sprayed my engine with single stage paint to match the color of my car. Still holding up since 2012
 

malicad

Dragway Regular
Dec 8, 2009
1,383
0
0
South Milwaukee, WI
Ed Cannon said:
The brush on hammertone stuff is tough and doesn't leave brush marks when properly applied. Used it on my roll bar.
I did actually use this on my transmission crossmember and it held up great.

81classic....thanks for the tip. I might try that on my next engine build (if I do one).
 

malibuguy

Top Fueler
Sep 29, 2003
3,775
1
36
Finksburg, Md
www.cardomain.com
Next time heating the piece?

I always have better luck with heating the piece somewhat to 'bake' it on
 

malicad

Dragway Regular
Dec 8, 2009
1,383
0
0
South Milwaukee, WI
I could've done that, to make sure it cured, but I hung it for literally 2 weeks in my basement, where I have a dehumidifier going all the time. 72 degrees and 40-50% humidity in my basement at all times. I thought that would be long enough. I ended up finding an awesome place that does powder coating very reasonably. 20 bucks later, it looks awesome and will never chip or scratch! If hindsight were 20/20, lol
 

malibuguy

Top Fueler
Sep 29, 2003
3,775
1
36
Finksburg, Md
www.cardomain.com
Powder coat is the way to go if you can swing it. I got a guy who is so darn good i cannot afford him haha