Trying to cure slight traction issue

willtow

Daily Driver
Jul 9, 2012
29
0
0
Trying to solve a traction consistency issue with my malibu bracket car I really don't think the car has ever totally hooked....the car has a decent built 355 with powerglide .suspension is -front stock springs,summit adjustable shock set to 90/10,removed front sway bar and loosened and greased all bushings,rear -stock springs,adjustable upper and lower control arms ,factory sway bar summit adjustable shocks set to 50/50 ,-3 pinion angle....4.56 gear spool ,28-10-15 slick .....I'm running a 4200 convertor footbraking leaving at 2600rpm car is consistent but 60fts aren't it will range from 1.55-1.59 and to get them there it needs a long high gear burnout ....the car will go 2800rpm before it pushes tohard to hold on brake .....I've got a transbrake but not hooked up some tell me the car will shock the tires and hook the same on tbrake but the rear diff isn't up to par for it and I like footbraking I've been told holding it against the convertor at the higher rpms could be causing issue as I'm leaving with suspension... I've been curious about trying a v6/trick spring in the front and also no hop bars for rear to raise the location of the upper control arm ....also been told about removing the bump stops under the front upper control arm or cutting the centers out of the control arm to allow for more front travel for better weight transfer..... Anyone had a similar issue or see a problem with my combo? Thanks
 

UMI Sales

Amateur Racer
Jan 6, 2009
254
0
0
If you're looking at relocating the upper arms via a no hop kit, you can achieve similar geometry with lower control arm relocation brackets.

Have you measured front travel to know how far you're extending?

If you have to heat your tires a ton, is the compound gone out of them? And have you messed with tire pressure? Keep a good logbook and try some different tire pressures.

ramey
 

willtow

Daily Driver
Thread starter
Jul 9, 2012
29
0
0
I've played with pressure anywhere from 11psi-15psi seem to get best results at 11.5-12 psi been through 3 different brands of slicks all reacted the same I'm mainly considering upper no hop bars as I have a set I can get my hands on quickly fairly cheap
 

UMI Sales

Amateur Racer
Jan 6, 2009
254
0
0
Cool. If you've tested pressures, the next step will be no hop uppers (or lowers!) and then try each of the three rear shock settings. If you're getting the weight rearward then it's coming forward too quickly thereafter, you may want to tune with rear rebound.
 

greer_racing

Weekend Racer
Apr 23, 2013
55
0
0
those 60's are pretty good for that car. my car likes leaving just above idle better then it does loaded up, it still leaves hard and ive had 60's in the 1.3s (no arb) but its not every pass mostly 1.5s. the lower brackets hes talking about i have and work well. i suggest taking the bump stops out because its free (did it on my own car) and try an idle or slightly above launch before you go shopping. idle and let it flash would be more consistant. i have trick springs all around and people will post after me saying they are junk and a waste but helped my car, i also have the front sway bar but no rear bar, hoping to buy one after xmas but i wish i hadnt cut half coil off the front to get them in easier
 

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