i thought you were going solid roller.. you could go hyd. but i didn't see and that were big with out going custom.
427 vs 434 vs 440 SBC Which one?
- Thread starter attngtr
- Start date
I thought about using a hydraulic roller cam because I already have the roller lifters and of course trying to save some money, 
But they don't seem to make a bigger cam than a .600 lift.
But they don't seem to make a bigger cam than a .600 lift.
So if I decide to go to a mechanical roller setup does anyone have suggestions on which cam and lifters to use? I would like to keep my converter if possible. It should stall closer to 5k rpm behind the new motor.
I found a cam which requires 5k stall, 11.5:1 compression.How does this one sound? Check out the specs:
Cam Style: Mechanical roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 4,500-7,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 276
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 284
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 276 int./284 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 313
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 322
Advertised Duration: 313 int./322 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.660 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.630 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.660 int./0.630 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 106
Cam Style: Mechanical roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 4,500-7,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 276
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 284
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 276 int./284 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 313
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 322
Advertised Duration: 313 int./322 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.660 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.630 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.660 int./0.630 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 106
Some food for thought. It sounds like want something more than a warmed over motor this should dictate what type of connecting rod you are going to use. The real issue building a big inch small block is clearencing the bottom end. With stock rods you don't need to remove as much material from the pan rail sides. Building a 434 with aftermarket rods you have to be VERY careful not to remove any excess material. Do your clearencing BEFORE any other machine work is done in case you hit water. Thats a bad day! If you haven't done this before seek advice or have a pro do it. They will probably not guarantee they will not hit water. Early blocks are thicker but four bolt. Everyone says use a two bolt. Again, decide on the horsepower. If you ahve this jack buy an aftermarket block . No worries then. For all but the more extreme cases (in which you should use and aftermarket block) use the four bolt with ARP studs and align hone it for a solid bottom end. Opinions are like bungholes. everybody has one. Read a bunch and use your common sense to sort through the B.S. And take your work to a machine shop that is busy, even if it means waiting.
