Anybody been able to strip paint like this? need prep help.

[Chillin014]

I've been wanting a paint job for awhile but didn't want to strip the paint off because it was so thick. The other day I accidentally discovered just how poorly attached the paint really was when I was able to peel off the whole door by hand. I ended up using a scraper and I've got 60% of the car done at this point. It appears that I am able to remove all the paint down to the primer?
My question is, what preparation is necessary with my new surface. Should I be putting body filler where there are uneven spots and sanding it down? Or do I need some kind of separating primer layer first? Should I sand FIRST and then apply filler and/or primer?

Another question I have is- Is rattle-can primer acceptable? Or should I just wait until I can spray something "better" with a gun?

I'm hoping to make a lot of progress in the process so I need to go pick up materials. I will come back with more pictures if necessary.

 

[RatMalibu]

Re: Anybody been able to strip paint like this? need prep he

that would be called delamination....you'll need to at the very least remove the top layer of primer (if it was mine i'd be stripping to metal)...after you remove the upper layer you can seal it with sealer primer and go from there...if it needs filler remove everything to metal where you will apply filler

if you really plan to rattle can it then just scuff the primer with a pad and rattle can it and save the actual body work and bare metal issues for later when you can do it right

just FYI by the time I was done with my car I had twice the money in the under layers than I did in the base/clear.....spray it on, sand it off lol

 

[Chillin014]

Re: Anybody been able to strip paint like this? need prep he

I don't have the time to bring it all the bare metal. This isn't going to be a super high-quality job, but it definitely needs SOMETHING. So its sounds like I'll just sand it smooth as I can right now only use body filler where necessary, and then spray the sealer primer on it. I'm not going to PAINT the car with rattle-can paint, I just wasn't sure if rattle-can PRIMER was a no-no or would conflict with whatever paint i chose. I'm probably going to do at least the rear of the truck within the next week so I'm just doing it in sections, as I have time.

 

[abigda]

Re: Anybody been able to strip paint like this? need prep he

I'm with Ratmalibu, with the paint coming off like that I would at the very least take a DA and sand of the top layer of primer

 

[Chillin014]

Re: Anybody been able to strip paint like this? need prep he

well I'm not sure if I can spot the "layers" but I definitely plan on sanding it considerably so I hope it will be sufficient!

 

[abigda]

Re: Anybody been able to strip paint like this? need prep he

That should help, BC you definitely don't wanna leave something on there that might cause the new paint to Peal as well

 

[Chillin014]

Re: Anybody been able to strip paint like this? need prep he

right. and I know the car has been repainted before but I think what I'm peeling off is the OE paint job as well. odd.

Also, what size is that cowl on your hood? Any visibility problems with it?

 

[abigda]

Re: Anybody been able to strip paint like this? need prep he

5", no not really

 

[Chillin014]

Re: Anybody been able to strip paint like this? need prep he

Thank you. Looks good. Think I'm going to go with a 4 inch rather than the 2.

 

[westexun]

Re: Anybody been able to strip paint like this? need prep he

Do a little research over on autobody101.com and you'll get lots of ideas on the different ways to handle a paint job. In my mind the quickest and probably the cheapest way to do it would be to DA the paint off wiht 80 grit, do what filler work needs doing over a 36 grit scratch for filler then spray three fat coats of Polyprimer with an etch built in like All You Need or Clausen Rust Defender then block with 180 and then 320 then 4oo wet. Start the paint job with a sealer, then base and clear. The poly primer saves having to remask and spray numerous times since it builds so thick, you'll have plenty of material to get the panels straight. The sealer is insurance that the primer doesn't soak up the basecoat since it's just sprayable Bondo and you never paint on body filler. The poly wont shrink like urethanes will and it will cover an 80 grit scratch no problem. A little tip, do not try to spray a metallic job with a cheap gun and cheap basecoat, it'll give ya nothing but grief. I like Spies and Diamont for basecoat. PPG has some good stuff also but I don't have that much experience with it.