Can't decide if I want to sandblast the body or not?

[brrymnvette]

I've got the frame out from under the car and am getting ready to sandblast it next week at a friends place. Now, I've got most of the car stripped, all the interior is out except the wiring harness, steering column, brake master/booster setup, windows and minor trim. I'm debating on taking the shell down there to blast too. But, I'm hesitant b/c I don't want to spend too much money on this car. All I have to pay for the blasting is for the sand. I'm the one who's going to be blasting it. I figure I've got 3-4 hours of stripping left before it's a bare shell. Most of that would be removing the windows as they are all still good.

What would you guys do? Keep in mind this is an extremely low budget build as this car is just a time killer for when my Viper is parked and it's not nice outside.

Rust isn't bad, I've found a couple pin holes in the floors and the body mount area under the passenger seat is kinda rough, the pass quarter is starting to pit, but that's about it.

 

[10secBu]

NEVER sandblast the outer sheetmetal or it the chances of it coming back warped are quite high.

Sand creates too much friction and heat. Body panels can be blasted with plastic beads or soda (like baking soda) and neither will damage the metal.

 

[melloelky]

NEVER sandblast the outer sheetmetal or it the chances of it coming back warped are quite high.

Sand creates too much friction and heat. Body panels can be blasted with plastic beads or soda (like baking soda) and neither will damage the metal.

x2,makes to much work with the sand.i had mine media blasted,it was like a 500 grit scratch when all done.no warpage.good times

 

[abigda]

NEVER sandblast the outer sheetmetal or it the chances of it coming back warped are quite high.

Sand creates too much friction and heat. Body panels can be blasted with plastic beads or soda (like baking soda) and neither will damage the metal.

Plastic bead can warp as Well with the wrong operator. I do plastic blast on sheet metal, magnesium, titanium, aluminum and kevlar for helicopters for a living.... the actual best way is walnut shells, with a little 30/40 mesh plastic mixed mixed in to remove any plastic body filler...... gotta keep your pressure low, and limit the dwell time on one area. Its heat that causes warping

 

[purecrazy]

I agree that it can cause more damage and take way too much time on a street driver if the shell is not in that bad of shape. Waste of time, DA it all down, primer and paint it, and roll on!

 

[HOLY TERROR-BU]

X2, 3, 4, 5 AND 6! EITHER MEDIA BLAST OR AIRCRAFT REMOVER. ONLY THING WITH THAT ROUTE, IT'S VERY TIME CONSUMING. IF IT WERE ME..GO THE MEDIA BLAST ROUTE!

 

['Bu-Camino]

unless you are trying to get rid of rust.....I'd stay away from blasting unless you really know what you are doing. For a low budget build and just trying to remove paint, chemically strip it.

In a perfect world dipping a car or soda blasting is my choice.

Sounds like that's not an option so I'd get after it with the smelly stuff and hit the rough spots with a DA. At the end of the day (for a budget build) it's shocking how good the 2k primer sealers are nowadays and what you can get away with covering up.

Bill