Cooling Issue!!

dragrace505

Daily Driver
Thread starter
Sep 18, 2013
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So I was looking under the hood today and saw that the two vacuum ports on the quickfuel carb were open. The vacuum caps that were on it dry rotted and were opened at the end. Would this have anything to do with cooling? Also, I noticed there's a small exhaust leak coming out of the number one cylinder's header flange. Does that matter for cooling?

I was also doing some electrical tests measuring the voltage at the fan and water pump and these are the following results:

For the water pump, I have a painless performance relay kit specifically for electric water pumps that came with a 30 amp circuit breaker and 30 amp relay and I am also running it in line with a fuse. I'm using 16 gauge wire for the wiring of the water pump. On first startup of the car, I measured the voltage at the connecter of the water pump and it was reading 12.3v. The car was charging at 13.8 volts. When the engine reached 180* and up, the car was only charging at 12.9-13v and the water pump was roughly around 11.7v.

For the electric fans, I have a painless performance relay kit as well specifically for electric fans that came with a 30 amp relay and 30 amp circuit breaker and I'm running a fuse in line. I'm using 14 gauge wire for the fans. On first start up, I measured the voltage at the electric fan connector and it was 11.7v. I then measured it at the circuit breaker and it was 12.13v. When the car reached 180*, I measured the fan at the connector and it was 10.7v and at the circuit breaker it was 11.2v. The alternator was only charging at around 12.9-13v.

I also, let the car idle in the driveway for about 15 minutes and it was at 180* for about 10 minutes then it started climbing slowly. I don't think that the engine should ever climb above 180* with the pump running and fans running when its at idle. You can feel the air behind the fans and there's a lot of air moving. I'm still using a 180* t-stat for these tests.

I have a 140 amp powermaster alternator.
According to the manufacturer, the csr water pump draws 6 amps, the zirgo 16" electric fan draws 10 amps, the summit racing fan draws about 9.5 amps, the msd digital 6 plus cd ignition draws 10 amps at 10,000 rpm that is, and my magnafuel fuel pump draws 8 amps. Total amp draw for all of that would be approximately
44 amp draw. Those are really the only electrical components I'm running.

Would all of this create and overheating problem driving the car for 5 minutes or less?
 

LS6 Tommy

MalibuRacing Junkie
May 15, 2004
15,847
1
38
North Jersey
The vacuum leak may cause overheating due to the lean mixture. You need 10 Ga wire for a 30 A circuit.

Tommy
 

The Roudy #3 4 ever

Amateur Racer
Jul 4, 2013
227
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plummer idaho
A couple of years ago I had a similar issue, it turned out to be my corrugated metal radiator hoses. The shiny kind with chrome end covers. they were about 3/8 inch smaller tubes than the rubber ones, although you couldn't tell from the outside. Changed them and problem solved.
 

dragrace505

Daily Driver
Thread starter
Sep 18, 2013
39
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Would the spark plug heat range have an effect on overheating? I am using a NGK V-Power UR6 plug. Would it make the engine run hotter or colder if I when up or down in heat ranges?

Thanks
 

gmtofd

Dragway Regular
Jul 16, 2004
716
0
0
Central Jersey
Like was mentioned, there is something radicially amiss. My suggestion is there's an issue with the head gaskets blocking the coolant passages. You mentioned that it has always ran hot.
 

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