engine ticking on cold starts

[ElCaminoBill]

This morning my truck started ticking after start up. I thought it sounded like a lifter problem. As I was turning around to take it home and get my Regal it stopped.

My 1st thought was maybe its low on oil. Oil was full, in fact slightly over full but, its been that way for about 3K miles. When I cranked it up after work the noise seemed to be coming from the driver's side of the engine. It sounds like maybe a lifter or exhaust leak. The ticking goes away when the engine warms up. 2nd thought was the exhaust dognut. No check engine light, no codes.

Local temps today were low 40s in the AM 70s in the PM. This is not the cold bearing knock that these motors are famous for. My truck only did that when temps dipped into the 20s or lower.

Engine is a 93 TBI 4.3, with only 105k, one owner miles. Factory manifolds. Last maintenance was changing the cap & rotor last week.

I know this isn't a G Body but you guys are the most knowledgeable and helpful on the net. Besides a Chevy V8 Is a Chevy V8, no mater what its in. And the 4.3 is 3/4 of a Chevy 350. What do you guys think?

 

[bowtie81]

could be a lazy lifter.

 

[MalibuMan1979]

could be a lazy lifter.

that's what i would say. i had one that did that. wouldn't pump up right away. it finally quit pumping all together.

 

[Anonymous]

Get some Sea Foam, follow the instructions on the can and add to the oil. Run for a few days, change the oil, and see what you get. It'll help clean out the internals, and I would be surprised if that doesn't help with that lifter noise.

Also, check the valve lash. Back each rocker arm off until you hear it tick, then tighten just until the ticking stops, finish off from there with 1/2 turn on the nut. If you have never done this before, cut a piece of cardboard that will fit inside the lip of the heads. The cardboard should be about 4 inches tall and will keep the oil squirting from the pushrod/rocker from getting all over everything.

Also, a piece of washer hose or small vacuum hose held to the ear and against different areas around the engine will help you pinpoint exactly where that tick is coming from. Or buy a mechanic's stethascope...it's worth the money.

 

[sean_malibu]

I've used stuff called lifter medic or valve medic ,made by Gunk I think.Just have to add it to your oil.I used it on a stock Jeep put it in ran it around the block a couple times noise was gone .

 

[Doober]

You may have heard of using ATF before... I've used both ATF and Seafoam with similar results.

 

[monzaz]

Yes all those product lean out the oil to break down varnish in the motor and hopefully dislodge any sticky build up in the lifter. If the vehicle sat or does sit for long unused periods of time this happens.

Now it could be a exhaust leak and after the manifold heats up the metal expands and seals the small cleance. Also after a vehicle gets warm the temperature around the manifolds is much hotter and the exhaust sound will be lessened from this also instead of hitting the cold air right at start up.

Just some other thoughts...

Jim

 

[ElCaminoBill]

Thanks guys, those are some good ideas.

The truck has been well maintained with regular oil changes using quality 5w-30 oil. It has been doing a lot of sitting lately though. Hadn't thought about that.

I have some GM engine top end cleaner which is supposed to be like Sea Foam. I could vaguely remember people telling me about ATF fluid in the past. Thanks for providing the details.

I have a mechanic stethoscope, which I tried. The sound seemed most prominent around cyl. 1 & 3 then stopped as the engine warmed. It needs to cool for a while and I'll try again.

Years ago on a Chevelle, I used a popular oil additive with teflon in it that recommended the engine be flushed with gunk engine flush. Afterward, I always felt that it did damage to the bearings. Since then I hesitate to thin or flush the oil, bit I may have to give it try.

 

[monzaz]

I used the slick 50 additive years ago in a 454, 350 GMC truck and a 327 street/race race motor ...All chevy engines. Everyone is still running very well after 14 years. The 327 was disassembled after 7 years back when and I took it to get cut and the shop said ' We can cut it if you want, but all it needs is polishing...???' That was a CAST crank. All that beating and 3 different cars. Pretty good. ?? I do not know if it was the additive that helped or just a darn good build?? All I know is it did not hurt the motor. Jim

 

[ElCaminoBill]

I used the slick 50 additive years ago in a 454, 350 GMC truck and a 327 street/race race motor ...All chevy engines. Everyone is still running very well after 14 years. The 327 was disassembled after 7 years back when and I took it to get cut and the shop said ' We can cut it if you want, but all it needs is polishing...???' That was a CAST crank. All that beating and 3 different cars. Pretty good. ?? I do not know if it was the additive that helped or just a darn good build?? All I know is it did not hurt the motor. Jim

SLICK 50, that's what it is. =D> I couldn't think of the name earlier. ](*,) No, I don't think it hurt the Chevelle motor either but the engine flush they recommended may have.