how much are you talking when you say "a bunch of power"?? are you taking 550+, 650+, 800+,??? Plus, if mean78malibu is progrssively spraying up to 200hp shot, he might want that hard hit off the line.
G Body Lower Control Arms
- Thread starter colin
- Start date
in mean78's case i would just run the control arms in the factory hole. with the car being lowered the IC is shorter already and if he leavers the lowers with the brackets its very short and likely see tire smoke on a sprayed launch
79malibusbc said:
Whith the instant center closer to the rear diff it just puts more of the weight transfer onto the tires. I've seen guys running low 10's, high 9's with SSM Lift Bars in their cars. they never complain of a loss of traction. If it hits the tires too hard then unloads, maybe those guys are running the wrong air pressure in the slicks. Everything has to be tuned to work together, including air pressure. you can't take a car that runs one way, just bolt a set of lift bars on it and expect it to react better then it did before, thats why they have "test and tune" at the track. Also, no one is mentioning pinion angle in any of this, which if you are lowered or not has to be set correctly.
Betcha618 said:
Thanks for all the input, I am new to suspension tuning, but i tried to do it all right with an anti-roll bar, strange coil overs, adjustable control arms, and the relocation brackets. I appreciate all the knowledge. I'm gonna have to get out the magnetic angle finders and set my pinion angle correctly.
don't weld in the relocating brackets, the jegster bars (formerly south side machine lift bars) brackets bolt in. Try it both ways, go to the track one weekend stock, then another weekend bolt in the brackets, reset your pinion angle and go back out. Nothing works on everyones cars because the set-ups are so different, weight varies etc. Do what works for you. The only way to find that out is by test and tune.
I didnt really have a number in mind when I said "a bunch of power" but if you want a number lets say well into the 9s and quicker. There is a point where you can hit the tires too hard and trying to control all of that leverage with the shocks can become very inconsistent.
I will say that I dont think it takes much to get these cars working very well. Busdriver's car is a great example. Strange S60 (which do have the upper control arms raised some, but I dont think it is near as bad as many of the aftermarket 9" rears), well boxed stock control arms with Poly bushings, TRZ ARB, 50/50 rear shocks, 90/10 front shocks. With 275/60 MT radials 28 psi in them and it would go 1.51 to 60ft with my motor in his car with a best of 1.401 with some nitrous put to it on the launch.
I will say that I dont think it takes much to get these cars working very well. Busdriver's car is a great example. Strange S60 (which do have the upper control arms raised some, but I dont think it is near as bad as many of the aftermarket 9" rears), well boxed stock control arms with Poly bushings, TRZ ARB, 50/50 rear shocks, 90/10 front shocks. With 275/60 MT radials 28 psi in them and it would go 1.51 to 60ft with my motor in his car with a best of 1.401 with some nitrous put to it on the launch.
CutlassRacer said:
I've never had my car at the track but I have a moser 12bolt (made for a g-body) 4.56 gears, ssm lift bars, stock uppers, the car is lowered trick springs in the front and drag shocks and on the 275/60/15's is hooks hard even on the street.
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