malibu traction issues

prairiehotrodder

Pro Stocker
Dec 17, 2005
1,571
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Melfort Saskatchewan Canada
I need to make my car hook on a small tire. I'm using a ET drag 29.5 x 9. I have edelbrock tubular lower control arms and edelbrock adjustable uppers in the back. I also have a spohn ARB. I'm using stock shocks and springs in the back. Is there anything to be gained by putting coil overs in the back? My best 60' is 1.47 but thats rare. Normally it breaks lose bad and i end up with 2 second 60' times. I'm using comp engineering 90/10 front shocks as well but i hate them. I can never even tell what setting they are on.
 

UMI Sales

Amateur Racer
Jan 6, 2009
254
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The biggest advantage to coil-overs is the ability to adjust ride height and the ease of changing spring rates.

The factory shocks and incorrect springs are probably the biggest culprit of your traction issues. other things like instant center that will play a part in it.

At minimum i would recommend double adjustable shocks in the rear for the ability to separately tune the compression and rebound individually and shocks that the rebound can be adjusted in the front.

If the instant center of the car is thrown too far out front a set on lower control arm relocation brackets can help correct this.

If you need any info or need to discuss what might help you feel free to give me a call here at the shop.

Thanks, Craig
 

shadychevyowner

Dragway Regular
Jun 28, 2005
782
0
0
Numidia Pa
On the cheap you can try pulling the bump stops out of the front upper control arms. It will give you more suspension lift in the front. Gbodys love front suspension travel. That is until you get to much power then you will have to limit it. But until low 10's high 9's you prolly wont have to limit travel.

If you dont have an arb and are twisting good i would prolly get one of those.
 

Ed Cannon

Pro Stocker
Jul 17, 2009
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Johnson City Tn
Front end travel and weight transfer is key. Get as much weight off the front as possible. I know you have a big block. The front needs to move with ease up and down with about 5" of travel. You don't need coil overs. I have UMI front upper a arms Hotchkis front springs and non adjustable Calvert drag shocks in front. Stock spindles. Moog rear springs, Old South side non adjustable upper and lowers, Calvert single adjustables in the rear and a Trick Chassis ARB. 29x10 Hoosiers @14psi. Ive had many 1.38 60's but I consistantly have 1.41 1.42's. Slicks have almost 100 passes on them. I do have a powerglide and that helps keep the SLR down some. You want the front to come up and stay up to help keep the rear tires planted.
 

prairiehotrodder

Pro Stocker
Thread starter
Dec 17, 2005
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Melfort Saskatchewan Canada
I went 10.11 at 133.5 a couple weeks ago with a 1.47 60' Launching off the transbrake guessing at 4000 rpm. Now i have a 2 step and with a 5000 rpm launch i just went up in smoke. With a 4000 rpm launch i went 1.55 . Its very inconsistent. My front end doesn't travel nice, gotta figure out why. I think nines are within reach if i can get my car to 60' better and tune up my carb a bit.
Brian
 

prairiehotrodder

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Thread starter
Dec 17, 2005
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Hey Ed do you have the lower control arms in the stock position on the rearend? Or do you have extra sets of holes so you can lower the control arm mounting point? Lowering the control arm mounting point brings the IC back right? Which helps with weight transfer?
brian
 

Ed Cannon

Pro Stocker
Jul 17, 2009
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Johnson City Tn
I have a 12 bolt out of a Chevelle. ''They" say you should have the lower control arm almost parallel with the ground with the car on the ground. Mine is not. Yes lowering the back of the lower control arm down will move the IC rearward. I have read that the more the IC is towards the rear the harder it hits the tires making spinning more likely and also effects anti squat. I think the IC needs to be a little past the center of the car to the front. This site has a ton of good info..... Instant Center Calculator for your drag car suspension
 
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prairiehotrodder

Pro Stocker
Thread starter
Dec 17, 2005
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I bought a complete set of Calvert shocks. The 90/10 non adjustable for the fronts and single adjustable for the backs. When they get here i am gonna take apart my front end and make sure its all moving freely. Right now if i sit on the front of the car it sinks down a couple inches and stays down! Must be some tight control arm bushings. I might fab up some brackets to lower the rear of the lower rear control arms as well. I talked to UMI this morning about ordering theirs but i am not gonna pay the freight that UPS wants for such a small item. EDIT : ordered them from Summitracing.
 

Ed Cannon

Pro Stocker
Jul 17, 2009
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Johnson City Tn
prairiehotrodder said:
I bought a complete set of Calvert shocks. The 90/10 non adjustable for the fronts and single adjustable for the backs. When they get here i am gonna take apart my front end and make sure its all moving freely. Right now if i sit on the front of the car it sinks down a couple inches and stays down! Must be some tight control arm bushings. I might fab up some brackets to lower the rear of the lower rear control arms as well. I talked to UMI this morning about ordering theirs but i am not gonna pay the freight that UPS wants for such a small item. EDIT : ordered them from Summitracing.
I think you will like those shocks, they work good for me. Wow it stays down huh? Thats an issue for sure. Your front springs may be done. Or there is something binding up. There is a lot of resistance in those front upper control arm bushings. Also you need to remove the front bump stops under the upper arms. I believe once you get that front end working right your traction issues will be all but gone. Keep us posted!
 

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