malibu traction issues
- Thread starter prairiehotrodder
- Start date
Found that my front upper control arms are really tight on the back bushings. They are the cheapo speedway uppers. The back bushing is really close to the headers. I have spohn lowers and they seem ok. I greased everything up really good and backed off the bolts a little (they have lock nuts). I can't even get grease to go into the bushings on those uppers. Might be time for some better quality uppers. Or maybe stockers to finish off the summer.
See above - found out why they were tight on the bushings. They are bent. Gonna straighten them out and weld in a reinforcement.
Brian
Brian
These cheap speedway arms bend right on either side of the ball joint where all there is is horizontal 1/4" flat mild steel. They are easy to straighten out in a vice. Then once they were moving freely i welded another piece of 1" round tubing across that connects the two tubes on the sides to the center ball joint area. Makes a world of difference. Got all my new Calvert shocks on, Suspension moves much better. Now i need a wheel alignment again. Can't wait to see how this works at the track. Thanks guys!
Brian
Brian
Unless your racing heads up on a .400 pro tree there is no real reason to launch at 5000 rpm with an automatic. Launch rpm is for tuning your reaction time.
Next time try launching at 3600 rpm. It will flash the converter a little harder and stick the tire a little harder.
When I ran an iron headed bbc I used Moroso BBC coil springs in the front with stock coils out back. If I would do it like that again today I would put a Santhuff spring in the front.
Good adjustable shocks can make a huge difference if you take the time to sort out the valving tuning.
Next time try launching at 3600 rpm. It will flash the converter a little harder and stick the tire a little harder.
When I ran an iron headed bbc I used Moroso BBC coil springs in the front with stock coils out back. If I would do it like that again today I would put a Santhuff spring in the front.
Good adjustable shocks can make a huge difference if you take the time to sort out the valving tuning.
thanks for the tip! This is my first experience with a trans brake so i didn't know what to do. I figured that if you want to go faster you launched at a higher rpm!
Brian
Brian
Hey ED, have you tried airbags inside the rear coils? A guy on speedtalk is telling me its the best way to go. They support the weight of the car so that the weight actually pushes the tires into the ground instead of squatting. Sounds reasonable. A company called airlift makes a nice kit that isn't to exspensive.
60844 for 7.5" tall bags and 60733 for 8.5" tall bags. $102 on summit
Brian
60844 for 7.5" tall bags and 60733 for 8.5" tall bags. $102 on summit
Brian
Yes I have used them. They were ok up to a certain point, when I started running in the 10's my car was leaving all crooked, one wheel 2ft off the ground and the other still on the ground. I installed a Trick Chassis ARB, problem solved. The ARB keeps the frame and body from twisting (so to speak) and transfers that energy into planting the rear tires evenly. Air bags are basically a band aid that changes the spring rate by adding and taking out air pressure. This is the way I understand it anyway.
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