my ls1 swap, problems/solutions

genericname

Daily Driver
Feb 3, 2010
13
0
0
BEMIDJI MINNESOTA
first off i will give a little rundown of whats going on. ive been reading and slowly working on doing this swap since about last christmas. there was alot of unanswered questions that i had, not sure whether they were truly unanswered or i was just too lazy to dig deep enough to find the answers, lol. mostly to do with certain fitment issues, such as crossmember and oil pan clearances, motor mounts, headers, etc etc. so basically i found out what i could and went at it head on, and hopefully some people out there can learn from what ive done


to start, the car is a 79 malibu 2 door. a $700 car. basically a cheap chassis for me to hack up and beat on to get the swap done so i know what to do properly in a few years when i feel like dropping the cash on a nice bodied malibu, basically using the car is a guinea pig. stock ls1 out of a 2001 trans am, 97 corvette heads. i freshened up the shortblock with a quick hone, new rings and bearings, and arp rod bolts. the engine also has a double roller timing chain, a ported oil pump, and a ported throttle body. i will be using a 4l60e with a fresh rebuild

my biggest concerns were the oil pan and the headers. i decided to use a truck pan, and since a stock truck pan hangs far too low below the crossmember i had my good friend who runs his own shop modify the oil pan, here are some pictures of the oil pan

100_0047.jpg


the inside of the pan, he ground all edges down smooth and welded seams inside and out

100_0049.jpg


had to modify the pickup tube as well, should fit nicely

100_0046a.jpg


the finished product with my main toy in the background, 11 sec camaro

100_0052.jpg

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i also had him weld -8AN fittings on the oil line feed and return, a 90* fitting comes close to the header but will work just fine

100_0054.jpg


oil pan to header clearance

100_0055.jpg


the only issue i had with the pan, the corner of the kick out was a little too wide to clear the crossmember. all i had to do was just get some different angles on the motor and transmission and it slipped right in. the only reason why this was a problem was the fact that my engine hoist was hitting the bumper and couldnt push the engine back any farther

100_0065.jpg

100_0066-1.jpg


as you can see the clearance turned out perfectly, i am very happy with it

100_0067.jpg


i got a truck water pump for cheap so i had it sandblasted and had him move the water neck from the truck position to the f-body position

100_0057-1.jpg




on to the next issue. header to frame/a-arm mount. before i even tried putting the headers in from what ive read the a-arm mount gets in the way alot, so i just went ahead and trimmed it a bit to save from putting a big dent in my headers, here you can see where i made the cut

100_0060.jpg


where the headers hit the frame

100_0074.jpg


a better view of where the clearance issue is. you can also see a better view of the cut a-arm mount and how close the new edge comes to the bolt hole, but im confident there is enough support still left in that bracket to not cause any problems

100_0073.jpg


i just ground down the frame a bit in that spot and the headers will fit fine. the better way to do it would be to cut a small notch out of the frame. i do suggest cutting the dog ears off the transmission before you put it in to make the header install a million times easier

i used transdapt engine mount conversion kit that worked fairly well, but the bolt holes in the plate were very tight and it was slightly a PITA to get them on but it wasnt horriblel, i would suggest drilling out all holes with the next size bigger drillbit to give the plates a little more wiggle room. i used the chevy clamshell style mounts since i had a set of brand new ones laying around.

100_0061.jpg


i have about a day into dropping the motor in, cutting and grinding the frame, taking headers in and out, etc etc, not too terribly shabby. the rest of the swap should be pretty straightforward. ill probably have to get my driveshaft cut and balanced. figure out what accesories i want to run (i wont be running AC or power steering so it may be difficult to find and accesory system to fit, but thats another story) getting my injectors, getting a harness, etc etc

100_0078.jpg







all in all the swap wasnt TOO horrible. all questions comments and constructive criticism welcome :)
 

87SS

Dragway Regular
Jul 18, 2004
975
0
0
Hillsborough, NJ
www.cardomain.com
Looks great. Do you have a closer shot of the motor mount area with the motor in the car? I ended up modifying my Moroso solid Gen 1 frame mounts, but am not completely satisfied with the outcome. I was thinking of getting new clamshells to see if it works out better.
 

pmgm

Amateur Racer
Jun 2, 2007
144
0
0
OH
The oil pan looks good... Modifing the water pump is a cheap alternative to buying a f body pump if you have a friend that can tig.. both came out nice.. Can you show some pics of your engine mounts?

Thanks for sharing...
 

genericname

Daily Driver
Thread starter
Feb 3, 2010
13
0
0
BEMIDJI MINNESOTA
as far as the motor mounts go i guess i can take some pictures, however im not sure how much good it will do as i am just welding my lower mounts in rather than try to dink with the nuts and bolts and bolt holes. i have a friend that is doing a similar swap into an 85 cutlass and we went over the options for him and he will be welding in his as well. it just makes it a million times easier, just get the motor where you want it your done, especially since my driveshaft will have to be cut reguardless.

on the 85 cutlass he has no heater box and already had a 4l80e in his car so he is just pulling the motor back and mounting it right up to the transmission, so he can keep his transmission in the same place as it was with a gen 1. the back of the engine will be close but will work nonetheless, he was able to slide the shortblock in and put the heads on with the engine in the gen 1 position
 

87SS

Dragway Regular
Jul 18, 2004
975
0
0
Hillsborough, NJ
www.cardomain.com
That is not a bad idea, just weld it where you want it and it works. May be time to fire up the Miller.
 

genericname

Daily Driver
Thread starter
Feb 3, 2010
13
0
0
BEMIDJI MINNESOTA
yep, we racked both our brains and figured it would be the easiest way to do it.

made some more progress the last few days, alot of people run the corvette filter with a built in regulator with a returnless fuel rail so thats what im doing. however alot of people are confused about the spring lock fittings that are used on the regulator and rail. they do make adapter fittings to go from spring lock to -6AN and i will be using that fitting on my fuel rail because i will be doing all AN stuff under the hood, but they are kinda spendy

but when it comes to the regulator ive found probably the easiest way to do it. just go to the junkyard or on ebay and get a truck fuel rail crossover tube with the fuel line pig tails still attached and cut off where it reverts to metal line. the fittings are the same, just stick em on the filter fittings and you have a flex section and then a hard line to do whatever, you can just clamp 3/8" and 5/16" line on the hard section or flare them for AN fittings. you then cut the male 3/8" spring lock fitting from the rail and you have the fitting that fits into the outlet side of the filter

the conversion fittings are pretty spendy, but if you can pick up the crossover tube for cheap with the fuel line pig tails still usable it makes it a hell of alot easier, and you have all 3 fittings on the corvette filter taken care of. heres a pic

100_0084.jpg


the 2 lines on the left are the stock fuel line connections on a truck (5.3 6.0 etc) just cut off where it converts to metal line, and the little stub coming out of the filter on the right side is an actual part of the fuel rail just trimmed off
 

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