I had to cut the “original” one out. I not even 100% sure it was the one that belonged in the car. I bought all new yokes and 1350 u joints for it and changed the pinion hole on the 9 inch.
New guy 79 factory 4 speed wagon.
- Thread starter Mighty
- Start date
That's right, I forgot you cut the original driveshaft out.
The shop manual states the factory driveshaft is 52.42 inches between centerlines of the universal joints. The same shaft is used whether using a TH400 (or ST10/Muncie )or TH350 (or Saginaw). The front slip yoke makes up the difference in length differences between the 2 transmissions.
The shop manual states the factory driveshaft is 52.42 inches between centerlines of the universal joints. The same shaft is used whether using a TH400 (or ST10/Muncie )or TH350 (or Saginaw). The front slip yoke makes up the difference in length differences between the 2 transmissions.
Nice to know. I wonder if the 9 inch make a difference in length at all compare to the stock 10 bolt that was in it???
I don't know how I forgot you had a 9 inch. The 8.5-inch rear is 1 inch loner than the 7.5-inch rear, so the driveshaft is 1 inch shorter. I don't know about the 9 inch.
Searching reveals a mix of data. It seems there isn't just 1 yoke for the 9 inch making it impossible to give a standard driveshaft length. Many posts state the 9 inch requires a longer driveshaft than the 8.5 and 12 bolt, so you may end up needing a shaft that is a similar length to the OEM shaft. You will have to measure and see what is right for your combination 😞.
What was stuck that required you to have to cut the original shaft out of your car?
Searching reveals a mix of data. It seems there isn't just 1 yoke for the 9 inch making it impossible to give a standard driveshaft length. Many posts state the 9 inch requires a longer driveshaft than the 8.5 and 12 bolt, so you may end up needing a shaft that is a similar length to the OEM shaft. You will have to measure and see what is right for your combination 😞.
What was stuck that required you to have to cut the original shaft out of your car?
It’s funny, like i think I mentioned in my very post I put the back of the car up on jack stands a couple of years ago and took the 3rd member out. Took it to a local shop and had them install a set of 3.89 gears in place of the 4.56. I don’t remember having any issues with driveshaft. Did it laying on my back in the driveway. No matter what I couldn’t pry that thing out of it when I got it up on a rack at the shop. The 3.89 probably doesn’t even have 5 miles on it. All of the bolts that held the rearend to the frame were just snug upon further inspection and like my brother said, it’s possible that that’s not even the correct driveshaft for the car since there was 3 of them sitting in my dads garage. He also pointed out how the weld yokes were all beat to hell. Probably from us dumb kids screwing around with it 20 years ago.
Yep. I would’ve liked to have rebuilt my super t10 with my brother and learned how to do one but I couldn’t pass up the Richmond. I ended up buying 78maliburacers shifter that he made and am waiting on arrival. Having zero experience with older 4 speeds no matter how many times I read his build thread and ask questions online I still quite confused about all of it until we completely tore my super t10 down and held up the competition plus shifter that was already in my wagon next to it. My brother had read his build thread too and started to some what understand his process and pointed some things out to me. I was just wasn’t really grasping the modifications that was done to the actual shifter itself until he explained it to my while looking at the posts online. I think he made me pretty fair deal and I’m going to be happy to have it. It’s going to save me a heck of a lot of time for sure
Hands-on is truly the best learning experience. Take your time with your project to be sure it is done with care and the way you want it, but I am on the edge of my seat.
I’m getting pretty anxious at this points. I’m running out of summer and nice weather! I think I’m finally done buying parts for it though. After the driveshaft of course.
I pulled the bell housing back off last night and took the clutch out. I read about using the dial indicator on the flywheel and bellhousing so I figured since I just spent all of this money on these parts I better make sure everything is nice and straight. Anyone care to share any info on this? Some of the people I talked to about it in person gave me the “we never didn’t anything like that back in the day” speech. Also, 78maliburacers shifter arrived to my house Sunday. I wanted to mess around with it last night but we had to screw around with a f350 for 2.5 hours before I got to mess with my wagon. Then my brother spent way too much time teaching me how to install a crush sleeve on a 9 inch pinion for my new driveshaft yoke. I hope that’s my first and last one of those I ever mess with
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