New guy 79 factory 4 speed wagon.

t5montecarlo

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Oct 21, 2007
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It looks like your spring is rubbing the header, which is not good. One or both will wear quickly, it will be noisy, and you will feel it in the clutch pedal.

At the bottom of this web page, I demonstrate where to relocate the return spring holes for a better pull angle by the spring, preventing the fork from twisting and cocking the release bearing while the fork is pushing on it. In my picture, I think I had the spring attached to the tail of a hose clamp wrapped around one of the header tubes. I didn't like the location of the factory spring and the headers may have also gotten in the way of the path of the original spring location. I wanted the spring to be parallel to the car, not angled like the factory did it. I don't have those headers on anymore. I am not certain where I have routed the spring with the current headers.
1986 Monte Carlo SS - Photographs

When the clutch freeplay is properly set, you should be able to remove the lower pushrod by pushing the bellcrank and fork in opposite directions. Because of this, I recommend adding a spring between the fork and the gage hole in the lower arm of the bellcrank. When shifting quickly, I have had the lower pushrod fall out. The added spring fixed that problem.

From my experience: Be sure to liberally lubricate the front bearing retainer on the transmission or the release bearing will scrub/chatter on it and cause prematurely wear. The bearing may have come with a little bit of grease, inside, but it isn't enough.

I searched to see if anyone uploaded an electronic copy of the 1979 service manual but could only find this one that had ads on each page. When I tried the search feature, I was directed to the wrong page. On page 824 is an image of the location of the return spring. I think the angle is goofy. The spring connects to a hole in the frame. I have never seen the factory spring in place. My 1979 Malibu Wagon was missing that spring when I got it. I hope from the picture, you can identify what hole is being used.
https://www.scribd.com/document/517010292/Chevrolet-Service-Manual

1712063240659.png
 

Mighty

Amateur Racer
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Apr 14, 2023
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Awesome thanks! By looking at the picture I think I might have had the spring in the correct location. I’m still waiting on the new bellcrank to show up.
 

Mighty

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Apr 14, 2023
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The new bellcrank showed up. Didn’t have the swivel bar in it that was worn out on my original one. Hopefully I can send it back and just buy the new ball and clips to replace in my original
 

Mighty

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Is it safe to assume that bellcrank “rebuild” kits are interchangeable? Or is there a specific A/G body one I have to use in mine?
 

t5montecarlo

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Oct 21, 2007
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The new bellcrank showed up. Didn’t have the swivel bar in it that was worn out on my original one. Hopefully I can send it back and just buy the new ball and clips to replace in my original

Is it safe to assume that bellcrank “rebuild” kits are interchangeable? Or is there a specific A/G body one I have to use in mine?

I don't know what you mean by the "swivel bar". The bellcrank is a part by itself, unless you bought a kit that was supposed to come with other parts that they forgot to send you.

These are the parts that fit into the bellcrank:

These are the parts that make up the lower pushrod:

If your lower pushrod is good, you just need the swivel that threads onto the lower pushrod (GM PN 3840845).
 

Mighty

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Apr 14, 2023
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Yea that was a typo/error on my part and I didn’t proof read. I’ve got a new swivel, the bellcrank didn’t come with the pivot ball that connects to the bracket on the frame. That worn out piece is the whole reason I ordered a new bellcrank because I just wanted to slap it on and be done with it lol. Now I’ll continue waiting on parts. I’ve watched a couple videos on replace the worn out bellcrank parts and it doesn’t look too bad. I just wanted to make sure they were all interchangeable and I didn’t have to look for one that’s A/G body specific.
 

t5montecarlo

MalibuRacing Junkie
Oct 21, 2007
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I have a webpage with all the parts listed and the corresponding GM part numbers.

Clutch lever ballstud (engine)GM 3866568; used since the 1960s
Clutch lever ballstud seal (engine) rubberGM 382658; used since the 1960s
Clutch lever ballstud (frame)GM 3935289; used since the 1960s
Clutch lever ballstud seal (frame) feltGM 3743360; used since the 1960s
Clutch lever ballstud seatGM 3743349; used since the 1960s
Clutch lever ballstud seat retainer springGM 3750696; used since the 1960s

The ballstuds were the same since the 1960s. When brick and mortar stores carried more parts they were available on the Dorman HELP rack. My experience with stores now is that many parts are in their warehouse and not in the store stock anymore.
 

Mighty

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Apr 14, 2023
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Awesome thanks for that! I’m probably just going to go ahead and order from that original parts group link that you sent me. Any complaints with the quality or do you know? Seems pretty cheap price wise
 

t5montecarlo

MalibuRacing Junkie
Oct 21, 2007
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The quality of the OPGI parts should be of good quality and the reviews for that kit are all very good.

I don't know why they include 2 felt washers; there is only a felt washer on the outboard end. The inboard end is sealed by the square seal on the ballstud mounted to the engine.
 

Mighty

Amateur Racer
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Apr 14, 2023
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Great, thank you. I should’ve just ordered that from the start but didn’t want to screw something up trying to rebuild my original z bar.
 

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