new motor starter issues

madmaxx57

Amateur Racer
Oct 5, 2010
237
0
0
DURAND IL
ok here we go tried to fire my patriot 383 tonite..broke the ebay mini starter before it ever cranked over twice....soooooo we went to azone for a cheapy to get us by until we get another ministarter.....and i cranked it over a few times before lighting the fire..sounded ok...put in fuel..car started right up sounded great..had a fuel leak..shut off upon restart..starter sounded bad..almost like a hot engine with timing advanced to far..engine cool tho..retarded the timing (by hand) car started fine..again fuel leak..shut off now with a little heat the starter sounds really bad...the first second it turn ok then growling..have tried shimming all over the place..no luck...i just realized that i have just regular bolts on the starter not starter bolts..took the starter off teeth are starting to get chewed up..fly wheel looks ok..but i need to get this figured out asap...i have used regular bolts on a starter before with no issues..and in my 30 plus yrs of building sbc i have never had to shim a starter..so what the heck am i doing wrong here???..starter is staggered hole..i have been told to use a straight hole instead?..ideas..thanks
 

madmaxx57

Amateur Racer
Oct 5, 2010
237
0
0
DURAND IL
ok..even tho i have looked at a hundred sbc"s before...i just came to realize something..the body of the starter bolt goes into the block about a 1/4 inch or more..i bought some strter bolts thru "help"..those bolts bottomed out and i have take about 1/8 off the end..but i got them to bolt up tight...now these along with gm starter bolt have a knurl..i'm not 100%convinced this makes a big diff..i think the bolt entering into the block have alot more to do with it than the knurl..as my regular bolts the body didnt enter the block..i think thats where my trouble was/is...i have cranked it over without ignition..sounds fine..tomm. i will light the fire..and it will tell me more..just thought you might like to here where this is at..learn something new everyday!!
 

Spaceboy1980

Weekend Racer
Feb 5, 2008
53
0
0
Lewisburg TN
I think the knurl is to take up the slop between the starter hole and the bolt shoulder, not for any sort of added retention. With enough slop you could be moved too close or too far from the flywheel.

I'm with you on the shims, only starter I've ever shimmed was a pos powermaster. I'd never buy one of those turds again, they wouldn't even warrant it. Have you used feeler gauges to see where your mesh is at?
 

madmaxx57

Amateur Racer
Oct 5, 2010
237
0
0
DURAND IL
i did use the pin that is included with the starter..that is good..it cranks nice without fire..today i will be running it and checking timing etc..originally i think timing was wayyyyyy advanced and was probaly causing the starter to push away and grind under load..i will know more later..thanks
 

madmaxx57

Amateur Racer
Oct 5, 2010
237
0
0
DURAND IL
i think the most important part is the shoulder and knurl enter the block..the starter housing is not tight enough to make a difference of that knurl..in the block yes..starter not really..i checked a few starters and they all arent very tight there at all..i did figure out my timing was wayyy advanced like i had thought..i installed a fresh cheapy starter new starter bolts reset timing a little closer..bingo no starter issues..set my initial @ 8 for the time being..starts like a breeze..tomm. i will reindex the distr. to the correct spot..all good.. thanks guys !!!