Thanks guys, I guess its not so cut and dry. I'm still a little confused. I know that my converter is to small for N/A , flashes at 3500 stall against the t-brake at 4600. I leave on the two step at 4200. Now I do want to (havent yet) spray the car with a little 150-200 shot thats why I got a tight converter, and I know everything is going to change when I do spray it, but I want to have everything right before I do that.
nitro,
soryy for kinka hijacking your thread
goob,
thanks for the info. low 10's with a small block and 2500+ runs I think you know what you are talking about. This does make sense the more I look at different combos on drag analyzer (I do realize that this is paper but you get the idea)
soryy for kinka hijacking your thread
goob,
thanks for the info. low 10's with a small block and 2500+ runs I think you know what you are talking about. This does make sense the more I look at different combos on drag analyzer (I do realize that this is paper but you get the idea)
Just a thought, but I wonder if the RPM's off the shift, let's call it the "fall back" RPM's are knocking the heck out of the ET, maybe it's not the higher shift RPM helping, other than keeping it up in the range after the shift?
My car was over geared for 1/4 mile when I had a real small hydraulic cam, so I would stretch the shifts out about 400 extra RPM's to keep it from laying down at the finish line....it slowed the ET, but at least I was only "over revving" twice for a short duration, instead of gritting my teeth from the 1000' line on to the finish.....
Trying to find that converter that will work with both N/A and N2O is a trick a lot of people would love to find......
I think the API Big Brute with the lock up converter option would be the ticket for a big inch, heavy spray deal......if you have an extra $7K or so laying around for experiment with.
I'm surprised that Lencos aren't more popular with the big inch spray folks......a stick car would love that stuff!
I think two biggies keeping the Lencos out are cost and classes. Most could overlook the cost, but class wise, they're illegal in most small tire classes, and anything that does allow them usually only does so with a STIFF weight penalty.
at the risk of sounding rude i find your numbers very hard to beleive greg. and i know you will show me timeslips etc as is your usual but i still find your claims on this topic ridiculous. -dave
Well, his Desktop figures could be wacky, maybe his tach is broken, I just didn't know who Greg was, hey whatever works.
It wasn't going anywhere.
My roller 355 would go to 7800, but not any quicker or faster than it did at 6800.......not any slower either.....go figger?
One cam I tried in it ran 11.22 best @ 123 MPH, I put in the right cam, and it went 10.73 best @ 123
I don't like buzzing smallblock stroker engines over 6800 unless you have some really exotic heads, because I think the piston speed overcomes the intake capacity of most 23 degree stuff, and it may not lose power, but your are wasting duty cycles and wearing out parts for no need.....
The torque converter is the most important part in any race car in my opinion......and they keep learning things all the time, and different purposes need different characteristics.
I've traded a lot of data with Art at Coan over the last 8 years, we don't completely agree on everything, but he's a smart guy that races every weekend.
Most of my input comes from a perspective of consistency and durability being paramount concerns, even if you are heads up racing, your setup needs to be consistent to track the value of changes you make....if you have a car that swings a tenth or two from atmosphere or track conditions, how can you test for a tenth improvement from your new part or idea?
It wasn't going anywhere.
My roller 355 would go to 7800, but not any quicker or faster than it did at 6800.......not any slower either.....go figger?
One cam I tried in it ran 11.22 best @ 123 MPH, I put in the right cam, and it went 10.73 best @ 123
I don't like buzzing smallblock stroker engines over 6800 unless you have some really exotic heads, because I think the piston speed overcomes the intake capacity of most 23 degree stuff, and it may not lose power, but your are wasting duty cycles and wearing out parts for no need.....
The torque converter is the most important part in any race car in my opinion......and they keep learning things all the time, and different purposes need different characteristics.
I've traded a lot of data with Art at Coan over the last 8 years, we don't completely agree on everything, but he's a smart guy that races every weekend.
Most of my input comes from a perspective of consistency and durability being paramount concerns, even if you are heads up racing, your setup needs to be consistent to track the value of changes you make....if you have a car that swings a tenth or two from atmosphere or track conditions, how can you test for a tenth improvement from your new part or idea?
Goob,
I will have to agree with on your thinking about how far your rpm fall's back to after the shift.a rpm drop of less than 500 was about write for my car.
my other bracket car is a 85 camaro.It was basically built like a stocker,ZZ4
crate engine 1.82 low gear powerglide,4.88 gear,9 by 30 hoosier radial(92.5) round.After getting the bugs out of the car, i broke a converter.
I had a friend of mine that was working for edmond richardson.I went up to his shop one day after work to talk to him about it and i ended up buying a TCI converter from him.It was a soft hit torque converter designed for a
big block stocker.In my car it flased to 5100,and i shifted at 5800,it woudn't even fall back.it trapped at 6000 in the lights in the 1/8 mile.it ran 7.50's
at 90 mph.It really felt weird to me,but i ran it for about half a season.I won about $1,500 bucks with it(FOOTBREAKIN IT).I remember one night it went 5 7.46's in a row.I SURE WISH I WOULD LEFT THAT COMBINATION ALONE!!!!! Edmond told me a few things about how he likes to set up a bracket car,and the more i race and try some of his ideas i see why he is
a world champion.Thanks for sharing your information.
Bryant
I will have to agree with on your thinking about how far your rpm fall's back to after the shift.a rpm drop of less than 500 was about write for my car.
my other bracket car is a 85 camaro.It was basically built like a stocker,ZZ4
crate engine 1.82 low gear powerglide,4.88 gear,9 by 30 hoosier radial(92.5) round.After getting the bugs out of the car, i broke a converter.
I had a friend of mine that was working for edmond richardson.I went up to his shop one day after work to talk to him about it and i ended up buying a TCI converter from him.It was a soft hit torque converter designed for a
big block stocker.In my car it flased to 5100,and i shifted at 5800,it woudn't even fall back.it trapped at 6000 in the lights in the 1/8 mile.it ran 7.50's
at 90 mph.It really felt weird to me,but i ran it for about half a season.I won about $1,500 bucks with it(FOOTBREAKIN IT).I remember one night it went 5 7.46's in a row.I SURE WISH I WOULD LEFT THAT COMBINATION ALONE!!!!! Edmond told me a few things about how he likes to set up a bracket car,and the more i race and try some of his ideas i see why he is
a world champion.Thanks for sharing your information.
Bryant
My combo has gotten a little goofy right now, because I have a spragless convertor and "small" 14x31 tires, but I can guarantee when my car was at it's absolute best, I ran a 14.5W tire, a convertor that went 6100 on the brake, and crossed at 6900. The engine in my car moved a total of 800 rpm from start to finish. I won S/Pro and Pro Championships that year..in a 10.30 doorslammer. Keeping the engines rpm range within a smaller window sure helps consistency.
Right now, with the spragless convertor and small tires...it's a decent car, but I've got some money to spend over the winter to get it back good. I've spent time driving a dragster that stalls at 6400 and crosses at 7400, with 1 shift at 1.9 seconds.
Right now, with the spragless convertor and small tires...it's a decent car, but I've got some money to spend over the winter to get it back good. I've spent time driving a dragster that stalls at 6400 and crosses at 7400, with 1 shift at 1.9 seconds.
