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Unfortunately not, but I'd imagine you can weld a plate to the arm to reinforce it... something to spread the load. TRZ coilover arms RideTech coilover arms

I was looking over the original ductwork from my '78 and the ductwork I got with the GP dash in mine, and with the exception of the round pieces that go to the round vents of the GP dash, I'm pretty sure it was all the same.

I think of it as metal to metal contact... As in beating the frame with a sledgehammer if it ever makes contact. The snubber would absorb some of that energy.

Bar's posts are the ones that make me really want to get my '78 out here to AZ. I'll be able to drive it year-round thanks to the weather :D

You might try a B-Body, from what I understand the angle or spacing between the ears is different from a G-Body though, so you'll need heim joints on one end (possibly both)... unless you make your own crossmember for the upper trailing arms at the correct angle. I've considered a B-Body rear...

Did you reinforce the arms for those coilovers? I'd hate to see it tearing up the arms from all that force in such a small area.

Did you measure backspacing? About 5.875" will be your absolute maximum for clearance at full lock.

I'm pretty sure it will... with the right backspacing. I fit a 275/40/17 in the rear, only slight rubbing on the wheel well lip without any rolling/trimming. A 255/50 would likely fit up front going straight, but might rub in a turn.

Notched mine, had it welded because we didn't have a welder yet. Bought the widest section of u-channel I could find (I think it was 4", 1/4" mild steel), and ground away pretty much everything but the top of the crossmember, fit just as well as it did without the hump. Looking at it now I...

Sounds good, I'll keep that in mind. I'm in the process of installing the "Jr" kit from TransGo, and hit a snag with a stubborn roll pin a couple weeks ago when I finally tore the trans down (have some pics, just gotta post them), and had to take it to work were someone had some good needlenose...

Cool :D Didn't your sig used to read "Later on, Nick."? It's definitely been a while since I've seen your name on the board.

One of the guys at work has a Magnaflow (at least he says it is, had it in the shop and the case looked more like a Flowmaster to me), and it's pretty mellow at idle, but has a bit of a throaty tone the few times I've heard him give it some gas. This is the system I have on mine, I ordered it...

That's quite a bit, even including the parts. I don't see why 2 cats and 2 mufflers would be more than $350 tops... so you're paying $450 for him to bend the pipe? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-54956 - Running a single 3" behind the 383 in my truck...

Yup. The RacePros are still about the size of a typical universal muffler though. I have a single 3" RacePro on my truck with headers and a single high flow cat, and it's not all that loud for being a straight-through design. At cruise speeds anywhere besides 2000-2200rpm I actually don't have...

2.25" would actually be fine for a stock 305 or 350, but I would stick with 2.5". I have a Pypes header-back 2.5" system with an x-pipe, Pypes RacePro mufflers, and GN style exit (45ish degree angle behind the tires). It's not the quietest, but it's surprisingly quiet for the mufflers being...

My dad got one for me, just 'cause :D It's probably the closest to how it actually sounds. It's a little bit more bassy than it is in the video, but otherwise accurate.

Trans is out today. Can't remember, what does this tag mean? ~1600rpm stall :D The number stamped onto the pan rail (passenger side just above the pan sealing surface) is 2CAM189C. From what I understand it's also supposed to include part of the VIN, but it doesn't, which leads me to...

It could be the fuse for that circuit then, if it's the same circuit as the compressor it's a 25A.

I'm thinking fusible link, it runs right down to the starter where the other fusible links connect. Oops. Orange comes from the high switch in the HVAC controls... do you have power to the yellow, tan, or light blue wires going to the blower resistor pack? I'm leaning toward a bad connection...

Re: 700R4 boost valve removal (and partial rebuild) I put a .472" boost valve and Corvette servo in last week, but it didn't help much. 3rd is a positive shift and 4th flares a little but not near as much. 2nd slips really bad, enough to where I try to get enough speed in 1st that I spend as...