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Ah-HA! http://www.dynamicefi.com/

A custom tune doesn't make me nervous :D I'm still trying to remember the company that offers a kit to convert a stock TBI/TPI computer to a flashable setup.

If you can get the brackets, it looks like you can get the calipers, rotors, and pads for around $260 + tax, and that's with a lifetime warranty on the calipers & pads. Basically the same kit as the Speedway kit with e-brake calipers, but about $170 cheaper.

May or may not need it, you'll probably have to crawl under there and see what works or what is needed.

The tubing is where the left pipe is run under the crossmember. http://www.crossmembers.com/g-body.htm

I don't see why it won't work. You should also be able to use 2nd gen F-Body rear rotors as stock replacements (kit says 11½", F-Body rotors are 11.496" or so). To use the e-brake the kit comes with stock '80-'85 Caddy Seville calipers. So in theory you should be able to just buy the brackets...

Also, another thought I had was maybe just giving a shot at putting TBI onto the motor when I swap it into the '78. It's getting a new tank for a TBI Monte, and all new stainless lines set up for TBI, so it would be a swap-in deal so long as I got the computer, etc. out of another Monte.

Can anyone elaborate on the effect of a cam profile and what will be needed to be compatible with a stock EFI setup (TBI is what I'm looking at mainly here). I won't always be running the 350 I have in the 'Bu, I plan to eventually go with an LS motor. My question lies with taking off the...

Is there any considerable interference with the rear seats and a minitub? Hadn't really thought of it much, but I figure it's something to think about before I dive into bodywork on the '78.

I'm going to guess 430hp or so if you figure the difference in displacement? No doubt street manners will be better. IMHO if the cam didn't make enough vacuum I'd just step it down a notch and go by what the manufacturer says vacuum should be.

I believe most of the stock wheels centered the wheel around the hub (i.e. 3" BS for 6" wheels, 3½" for 7" wheels, etc.). Since they were fairly narrow there wasn't too much to worry about.

Mine drips pretty much directly between where the passenger's knees would be. Maybe take it through a cheap car wash & see where it comes from? I don't think they used a seal, and are glued in place. I would probably take it to a glass place & see what they say. My windshield was put in a...

If you're going back to the TPI intake, probably wouldn't hurt to go to a slightly larger set of runners... I'm pretty sure they weren't meant to run past 4,500 or so. You'll also need a Vortec-specific TPI intake that runs $400+ new :shock: Unless you have a set of Vortecs with both bolt...

That's weird, I wouldn't think there would be any vibration if they're at stock length. Are the trans output shaft/rearend pinion parallel (aka angles to the driveshaft are the same/180º apart)?

I think for a street motor they still hang around the 230º mark on duration, but have more lift. It's surprising the power a stock long block can put out!

\:D/ =D>

Take a look here. You may be able to get the parts you need. Before I found my 4-speed I was considering the GK-SAG kit, but it was cheaper... that was a few months ago :-k http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_overhaul_kits/saginaw_4_speeds_overhaul_kit.html

I'd say you made away fairly well on it. It depends on what the gear set is though (there were 4 different sets). There will be anywhere from 0-4 rings around the input shaft, that will denote what gear set it has. I don't shift mine hard most of the time, but I'm on the gas pretty good...

Greetings :D I recognize your username from GBF. I had mine welded with a piece of 3x4" tubing, and the bottom cut out.

If I didn't have another bellhousing to use, I would definitely be using the guide you posted :D