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From what I've read the most primitive types just used some wiring and a pair of headphones :shock:

Good deal :D

I was kind of wondering about the bellhousing myself. Using the straight fork and a bellhousing that likely has a clutch fork stud in the 'regular' location, that's probably why it was moved. If it hits the floorboard though, it could cause engagement issues. Before I knew about the G-Body...

I may just be blowing smoke because it looks like you've already done some homework, but here goes nothin'... hopefully it's some help. By moving the rod up on the z-bar, you changed the ratio of the upper rod to the lower rod. Basically you shortened the travel of the lower rod. If you can...

That's quite a bit further forward than the ballstud would be on a G-Body. Those on a G are directly above the oil filter pad. I don't see why it would be any trouble to make such a bracket though. The info we already have has more than satisfied my question :lol: Now we just need an adapter...

You & me both :lol: One of the members on here was going to try to use the self-contained unit from Vintage Air. I'm not sure how or if that happened, he never gave an update on it. I'd like to go that route to give some more room in the engine compartment if it's possible.

My thinking is that it'll be the same spot as any other SBC. The z-bar will be specific to the Corvette.

Look at the rear two bolt holes on the motor mount plate. I imagine it would probably work with other adapter mounts, but since everybody's gone hydraulic... :roll: :P

I would imagine it's the same, but I imagined it bolting up with the bellhousing.

I've never even seen under the hood of those, so I have no clue how much room they have to fit the length of a small block compared to a 4.3 :P

Besides the mount fabricating I see much more ease in running a 4.3/4L60 compared to *insert Isuzu drivetrain here :P*. Is it a mechanical (not computer-controlled) 4L60? Just remember the vacuum switch for the lockup converter.

Also pay attention to the vacuum lines/wiring running through the firewall. It's kinda doubtful anything will get in through there though. At the same time it's possible your windshield may be leaking. Mine drips directly over the passenger floorboard in a heavy rain. I pulled my heater box...

That's my thinking. Any pictures I've seen of the side of the block haven't shown the boss the older SBC has. I didn't know Liberty already made a bracket like that. If the external dimensions of the LS motor are the same as the SBC, I suspect not much would need to be taken out of the Z-Bar...

Shame it wasn't a 2-series :P Since I'm too late anyway it dudn't matta :roll: :lol:

Factory yes, but I found mine was much more responsive at 10-12º advanced.

It's fine so long as you don't energize the clutch... if the plug is disconnected from it don't worry 'bout it. You can get rid of all the wiring, etc. on the passenger side.

The route I considered with mechanical linkage was to keep the bellhousing, run an LS1 T56 with the adapter plate for older bellhousings (there's a place in MI that makes them), and the adapter flywheel to use an older style trans... similar flywheel/clutch setup to what 388bu has (383/T56 to...

John Bzdel outlines trying a stock pedal setup in his buildup of the Monte, and everything he had to do to make a pedal work.

I know the LS motor doesn't have a boss like a Gen I SBC, just wondering if anyone has ever tried (or at least considered) going with mechanical linkage. A bracket wouldn't be very hard to make, I'm just not sure the offset would be too much to bolt the z-bar up correctly.

Have you taken a look at where that red wire runs to? If he connected it that way, the red wire would have to be run all the way back to the battery, or tied into the harness somewhere near the front of the car. It's hooked up like that on my buddy's '00 TJ and it's running fine...