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Unless something happened to the stock rear arms. It's a stock 7.5 correct? If it is, maybe try a set of stock G-Body arms and see how that pans out.

I like that, maybe I'll think about one of those hoods for mine :D Have you considered a stripe on the trunklid?

They were stamped at the factory, G-Bodies didn't get boxed arms, they're probably either aftermarket or welded. If the transmission's against the floorpan, then I'm guessing the problem lies more with the rear suspension. Far as the vibration, once you've gotten the hang of tracking down...

I have a feeling the stuff I got was the enviro-type stuff... didn't do a thing, even to the brake dust :roll:

I'm not sure if you went to Eastwood's site yet. http://www.eastwood.com/ Here's the article I was telling you about: http://74.125.95.132/search?q=cache:0EdNCWhOe24J:www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp%3FitemID%3D852%26itemType%3DCATEGORY%26iMainCat%3D688+eastwoods+vs+por15&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us...

If you're going to the work of welding, you could weld the stock crossmember. I managed this (with a little brainstorming with my dad) without having to set up a jig. It bolted right in, no problemo :D

It won't simply be a resistor in-line to correct the rpm reading. There is a capacitor/resistor combo somewhere on the circuit board to get the correct reading. Same way with the G-Body, F-Body, etc. tachs. I came across a tach at the junkyard recently that is something like 40% off, a really...

You know us Michiganders... :roll: ;) :lol: I have to say I really like the line lock bracket/location.

If you have a wide sweep speedometer you definitely won't. I believe the later year clusters (post-'83 probably, so they wouldn't have been in the Malibu originally) all had the round-gauge style setup, but some still had idiot lights. And some actually had gauges.

It could be because the output shaft/pinion are at different angles. I think in an ideal situation they would be equal. To correct this you could probably shim the transmission mount, or use adjustable control arms on the rearend.

The red teeth are where the starter was grinding (opposite side of course), I'm hoping it'll be ok.

My guess is the gauge cluster option that actually has a voltmeter. Some cars that had a round-gauge style cluster didn't actually have gauges, just dummy lights.

Thankfully the flywheel's not torn up. The teeth on the bendix look like the starter's older than it is, so it's getting replaced (brand new). I'm also returning the Ford solenoid I got. When I mounted the new one and tried it (starter disconnected), it seemed to stick on. Turns out it...

Yeah, I figured, just thought I'd give the stripper a shot first. http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=38892 I'll see if one of the local shops are open tomorrow and try to get a price. The tires are still on the wheels, will that matter?

So I tried the $8.99/can of aircraft stripper from Autozone. No luck.

Another glorious update. Apparently a solenoid can be wired wrong. I may have torn up both the starter and flywheel.

I thought I'd found a good spot on the inside of the fender directly behind the coolant tank. Wrong. I had made sure it cleared when I was mounting it, but forgot to take into account the cable that ran to the starter. Luckily it was on the switched side, far as I can tell it was touching the...

Somebody (I think may be it was 85_SS?) wrote a writeup on making one. Doesn't seem too difficult, just uses two single-inlet cleaners. I'm considering one myself.

A little searching online today it looks like it would take a competent shop about 10 minutes to strip a bare (no tire) wheel, sounds reasonable. I still haven't seen any prices to even get an idea :? I have a number in my phone for a local powdercoating shop, but it's out in the car :roll...

That looks like quite a sleeper :D