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Well that's about 15%, which is pretty good I think. I'm debating on either the street/strip or the towing version... I don't think I'll be making north of 400hp but who knows.

I noticed you got one from them a while back. Is the discount a percentage, or is it a flat amount? I'm sure eventually I'll have to replace the one in my truck after putting the 383 in, which is why I'm asking.

I have a set of the cheap $15-each Gabriel lifetime-warranty shocks on my '81, they seem to do a decent job goin' down the road.

Yeah... that or the Performance Products one. The cheapest name brand I think is a Weiand at around $160.

'96+ for Vortecs, and 906 or 062 will be the casting numbers. One has a heavier duty exhaust seat (I believe those are the 906), and some claimed flow restrictions on those, but I think it was just a myth. I kept the stock springs and mine runs strong to 5000+... I don't think springs here are...

Junkyard Vortecs - $200 Vortec intake - $140 (Summit) Comp XE268H - $116 (Summit) Under $2k, you won't be sorry :mrgreen: That is of course if you already have a carb for it.

... is it worth it compared to regular main bolts? I figured it would be a little added insurance since I'll be making a bit more torque & maybe a little more power this time around.

I think low 13s may be pushing it if they're mid-70s heads... not that 13s aren't out of the question entirely, you'll probably need close to 325-350hp to pull that number.

Why not? :-k

On to the picture whoring... you can see they probably didn't change the oil for 10,000 miles or more.

I'm planning to get all the casting numbers so I know what I have. I checked the casting number of the motor before I bought it, and it says it's a 4-bolt, I was kind of happy about that. I've been up about 25 hours now on a 1 hour nap, so I'm gonna sleep and maybe start really looking at...

So I got a LOT more stuff than I expected (phone pics seem to suck apparently this time around)... Engine stand, 2 bellhousings, exhaust manifolds, SI alternator, starter, unused water pump, points distributor (looks like I found my engine primer :)), cast iron intake w/ a 2bbl. Holley 500...

It's going to be 95% street, daily driven. I may take it to the track just to see how it'll do, but I don't have intention on weekend races (maybe stoplight ones :lol:). Max RPM will be 5,000 or below. I'd like to stay in the 87-octane realm if possible, but if not, it's not going to be a...

Oops :lol: I'd been doing some research over on fullsizechevy.com, and I'd already known about the bigger bores in the 454 throttle body. I didn't even see that thread, thanks for posting it ;)

Thanks? I'm a little confused :lol: I'm also looking for input on pistons. Like the age-old debate of turbo vs. s/c, regular vs. long rod setup, what about (hyper)eutectic vs. forged pistons? What I've read is the forged is more durable when subjected to abuse (of course), but the eutectics...

Oops... that was meant for Shaggy, but it's good to know anyone's makin' progress. I got a text message from a friend in MI last night, he came across a Hurst v-gate shifter for $100, he knows I've been coveting ownership of one for quite a while. I'm waiting to hear back if there are any part...

He replied, said to call, so I'll be doing that a little later (it's only 7:30 here right now). He didn't say he wouldn't separate them, so I'm taking that as a good sign.

Good to know you're makin' progress 8)

Something that's crossed my mind on the 383 I'm planning on building for my truck, regardless of whether this is built with torque or horsepower in mind, when should the main caps be upgraded? I mean I won't be racing this thing at the track every weekend, but I'm pretty sure I could build it...

I came across an ad for a 10k-mile 'crate centerbolt' (reman. or new block is unknown) 350 coupled with a 4-speed for $500, so I'm going to see if he'll be willing to separate the two for half the cost. If everything turns out to be in good shape I may wind up saving a lot of money on machining...