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How in the world did you wind up with an Elky in that shape for $200? :shock: :D

I'm thinking you may have been able to keep all your bellhousing/etc... You might just need a longer pilot bushing. http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=565489#Post565503

Anybody else notice the bungee cord? :lol: Still, very nice work :D :awesome: I'm kinda curious about the (trans?) cooler myself :-k

Re: 388bu's LQ4 swap thread Subscribed =D> \:D/ party_guitar.gif

Ok, I'll rephrase... With where the tires are sitting right now, there is no alignment in the world that will wear correctly. I know about toe, caster, and camber, and last I checked they were all part of an alignment :lol: If he had camber set to where the tires would go up into the wheel...

It wouldn't be alignment, that doesn't affect where the wheels sit in the wheel well left/right, only how they're pointed in relation to each other (it does affect how they are front/back a little though when caster is set).

X2. Mine wasn't held at 3000, it was held at a high idle (didn't know the rpm because my tach is funky & plus it was open headers :shock:) for 15 minutes or so, and then it idled for a while after it was warm while we adjusted the idle on the carb & the timing. Before starting it I also primed...

:lol:... I commented on your revving vid earlier this year ;) Wasn't sure if it was the same car. I also found the pics I took of it about 4 years ago at the Longway/Sloan car show :shock:

Awesome :D I'd probably wind up with new hoses if I wound up with an Astro unit. I'll send you a PM when/if I get more figured out :)

Old topic I know, but I was at a car show with vendors today and a buddy of mine said he could get the setup for me on the cheap, I believe he said they were from Astro vans as well. Does anyone have any pictures of the rod that needs to be shortened? I'm also slightly curious how the plumbing...

In my case part of the issue was either something with the 27 year old wiring or the old ignition switch (couldn't carry enough current to energize the solenoid). I bypassed all that for now and put a relay under the hood with all new wiring. It still doesn't want to turn over well sometimes...

Mine is kinda the same way, so I'm interested in knowing. Mine often cranks over ok still, but after I've been driving the car (just put a heat shield on the first time in 3 or 4 summers driving it) it wants to crank slowly.

Shoot, a 6.0 with a cam (likely even stock) will do that for you, and you can even keep the EFI :P

I don't know about the F-Body transmissions, but I went through the same thing you did. Picked up a T5 I was told was from an F-Body (WC, had the roller countergear bearing & everything). I looked up the tag (about 3/4"x5") #, turns out it was out of a '91 S10 with a 4-cylinder. I don't know...

Eh, it gets sideways on & off the dirt ;)

If you're for more of a street/strip look I'd stick with where it's at, looks good. If you're for pro-tourer I'd aim for this ;)

Re: Update - 8-12-08 X2 on checking with the harness/exciting wire. I seem to remember seeing someone asking "doesn't the alternator get turned on by the PCM" or something to that extent, so it puts a big question mark in my head that I myself want to find out before diving into the LS world...

A couple ways to do a burnout is by using a line lock (which involves re-plumbing the front brakes, a solenoid that holds line pressure to the front is installed in-line), or just by holding the brakes with one foot while holding the gas with the other. You may be able to pull it off seeing...

I would go with both personally. I was dealing with a mess concerning the speedo/lockup converter in my '88 pickup years ago and discovered the brake switch disengaged the TCC, even when you forced the TCC to lock up through the ALDL port under the dash.

I kinda thought about that myself, just going with semi-flat instead of the natural aluminum finish.