BMR relocation brackets
- Thread starter 3caminoman
- Start date
)UMI Sales said:
Ok, I have a question about this. In your post it says that these brackets help to keep the lower control arm more parallel with the surface. Every set of these I see installed the lower control arm seems to be pointing towards the ground instead of parellel to the ground. I know on my car it is lowered a little and in stock location the lower control arms are very close to parellel to the ground. If I installed these brackets on my car, my lower control arms would be angled more downwards than parellel to the ground. I am just trying to understand if they drop the mounting point on the rear of lower control arm how does it make it more parellel to the ground, especially on a stock height car where the rear lower control arms are already pointing downwards to the rear end.
I just don't know if I need to use this type of set up or not. I have read in some of the threads that the relocation brackets work well in low HP applications, but I just don't know where I am in that. My set up is sbc 400-450+hp, 3800 stall, crazy built th350, 12-bolt 4:56 posi, full notch 325/50 drag radial, PST 1 1/8" rear sway bar, comp eng adj shocks all around. Car is stripped two lightweight front seats, 10point cage, alum dash, etc... I plan to stage on the 2-step module around 2500rpm, but will have to see from there.
the brackets drop the rear of the lower control arm down wich changes your instant center more towards the rear of the car, which loads the rear tires on launch.
I've heard that on cars with over 550h.p. it "hits" the rear tires too much and then they unload just after launch. I had a bu with a 400+hp 355, 350 trans, 12 bolt with 4.56 gears a lil under stock hight and the brackets worked perfect on my car. hope this helps.
I've heard that on cars with over 550h.p. it "hits" the rear tires too much and then they unload just after launch. I had a bu with a 400+hp 355, 350 trans, 12 bolt with 4.56 gears a lil under stock hight and the brackets worked perfect on my car. hope this helps.
Thanks for the info. I do understand now how they work, but still am wondering how he says that useing the brackets will make the rear controll are more Parellel to the ground.
I have thought about useing these brackets, but I am worried about the car hitting the rear tires and then unloading downtrack. Main reason, my wife wants to also race the car and I don't want her to have a handfull to take care of halfway down the track. That's also why I went to the larger rear tire 325/50 DR instead of 26X11.50 ET Street so it might have a little better bite downtrack.
I have thought about useing these brackets, but I am worried about the car hitting the rear tires and then unloading downtrack. Main reason, my wife wants to also race the car and I don't want her to have a handfull to take care of halfway down the track. That's also why I went to the larger rear tire 325/50 DR instead of 26X11.50 ET Street so it might have a little better bite downtrack.
malibulvr said:
Thats easy, get the bolt in brackets. I think they're like $35. try em out yourself (before you let her drive it. If they don't make the car go down the track better, unbolt them and take em off. With a couple hand tools and a jack you could pull em out at the track in no time.
as to the post above, they say if you lower your car alot you can use the brackets to get the control arms more level with the frame rails cause if you lower the car your LCA will be pointing down towards the ground, thats no good. But on a fairly stock hight car the will be pointing up with the brackets. which is not bad
(depending on HP)
10-4, thanks for the info and recommendations. hadn't really thought about the bolt in brackets, might try that.
before when we were talking about welded brackets, we were talking about the brackets be cold rolled or 3 separate pieces welded together to make the bracket.
I disagree 100%.BMR Sales said:
The farther out the IC is the easier it is as long as the AS values don't get real stupid/crazy. The IC point is the point where it lifts the body of the car.
Example.
Hold a 10ft long board horizontal to the ground and pointing away from you. You will have a hard time lifting the other end of the board up if your hand is 6" from your stomach. Now move your hand 6ft forward and it will be much eaiser to lift the end of the board.
Just like a longer ladder bar will have more leverage to lift the nose than a shorter one.
KS
Thats a good point but you can only move the instant center back so far with relocation brackets. In lifting the front you are also transfering weight towards the rear of the car which helps plant the tires. A car will 60' better with the instant center moved rearward. It is possible to go to far rearward with your instant center adjustment. Every car reacts different. Thats why we have several different holes to use in our brackets.
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