Brake Update ***New question***
- Thread starter wiseman79
- Start date
May not get results today unless the weather breaks. I'm moving next month so the car is outside since the garage is full of boxes and furniture.
my car has factory manual brakes... when i am doing 50 and slow down it works so much better than the power in my truck i like them. lost of people said i would have trouble stopping manual brakes but so far so good. and yes air in the lines sucks
There was no bleeding the rear brakes. I couldn't get ANY fluid, or even air out the rears. The combo valve seems to be the culprit. I took it out, reinstalled the wilwood residual pressure valve. I've still got to plumb the fronts, but wanted to get some input on a metering valve. Gotta have one? What type and what's a good source for one?
wiseman79 said:
I run nothing on mine but a T to the front lines and a T to the back lines, no prop valve no residual valve no nothing.
If you have rear disk, you do not need a metering valve. Drum brakes require them because it takes a split second longer time to push the shoes out to contact the drum than it takes the front calipers to push the pads out to contact the rotor. The metering valve allows the rear to engage a little sooner by holding pressure of the front brakes until the rear has time to catch up. Without it you will experience a very unstable feeling car under braking.
The residual valve will do the job of keeping the pressure at the rear drums to minimize the delay of the rear drums.
Just leave out the metering valve. The less crap you try to compensate for, the less apt you are to have something go wrong. Once all that air is out, you'll be fine. Mine was the same way, and now I can slow down at the top end just fine, and hold it in the burnout box no problem.
Just leave out the metering valve. The less crap you try to compensate for, the less apt you are to have something go wrong. Once all that air is out, you'll be fine. Mine was the same way, and now I can slow down at the top end just fine, and hold it in the burnout box no problem.
I ordered this one. I read similar stuff, It makes for more stable panic stops, and helps prevent premature wear on the front brakes. Without a metering valve, in mild braking the pressure doesn't reach a point to overcome the return springs on the drums so you're only using the fronts to brake. I'll update when the part arrives and is installed. I'm certain this will work, there is nothing left of the old system to go wrong!
It wasn't air in the line, something in the Combo valve HAD to be bad. I could open the bleeder valves in the rear all the way, stand on the pedal and nothing would come out, no air or fluid. The pedal was just as rock hard with the rear bleeders open vs closed. So something was preventing pressure from reaching the rears. The system worked fine before beginning this work, but at this point my brain hurts from trying to figure out exactly what went wrong. As long as it works after removing the combo I don't care, if there is still a problem, well then I'll just drive it off a cliff.Supe said:
You can get the combo valve off center, then it blocks flow of anything in one direction. had it happen to me a few years back. it's a real pain to get recentered. Took a few hours of banging and cussing to get corrected.
I almost always gravity bleed my brakes now tapping the capilers & wheel cylinders every so often to loosen any trapped air. Seems to work well and less chance to get the combo valve off center.
I almost always gravity bleed my brakes now tapping the capilers & wheel cylinders every so often to loosen any trapped air. Seems to work well and less chance to get the combo valve off center.
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