Okay first off, 1-wire alternators no matter who makes them are junk by design electrically....and I have plenty of experience with the whys but that's for another day-if you want to know why they are crap, pm me and I can explain why a 3-wire is always better to run. Autozone can't test your alt. because you can't use a plug for the regulator. So, to test your fused circuits just to verify if one is draining the battery, an easier way is to dis-connect your negative battery cable and clamp a test light lead to the cable end and the sharp end of the test light to your negative battery post. If there is a drain, it will light up...pull fuses until light goes out. If it does not go out after pulling your fuses, start pulling things like your ignition switch harness, IGN hot leads in your fuse panel, BATT leads, then dis-connect the charge wire on your alternator. I suspect your alternator is at fault. The 1-wires are NOT an efficient way of maintaining system voltage plus they can be dangerous. Battery voltage with engine running should be at least 14.4 and 12.6 with engine off.
Cranking Problems
- Thread starter dickeymoore
- Start date
I agree with gbodystuff. The 1 wire alts are a pain. They don't start charging untill they reach a certain RPM. The test light trick should work good. I had a car once that drained the battery because the cigarette lighter was stuck in. Also check that you have a nice heavy ground cable from your battery to the frame and from the frame to the engine block. BTW-- I've seen some accesory brackets that don't conduct electricity thats why i say go to the block. Make sure also that the starter bolts and mounting flanges are clean and tight (no paint)
Brian
Brian
The last couple posts are correct.
Did you pull the wire off the alternator while doing the parasitc draw test?
If not try that.
We assume the battery is in the engine bay, right?
Do you have any relays that you added to the car?
In your fisrt post it had an Optima and now an Interstate, which is it?
One wire alternator are dunb, meaning they more or less supply volatge based on RPM not need/draw.
So even if your battery is fully charged the alt will try and ram voltage into it . Overghaging is as bad, if not worse then undercharging.
A Optima will die a quick death being overcharged.
Did you pull the wire off the alternator while doing the parasitc draw test?
If not try that.
We assume the battery is in the engine bay, right?
Do you have any relays that you added to the car?
In your fisrt post it had an Optima and now an Interstate, which is it?
One wire alternator are dunb, meaning they more or less supply volatge based on RPM not need/draw.
So even if your battery is fully charged the alt will try and ram voltage into it . Overghaging is as bad, if not worse then undercharging.
A Optima will die a quick death being overcharged.
I was having this same problem. Found out that the wire coming from the alternator needed to be on a key on switch. After we switched this around, have had no problem.
Similar threads
