Getting better 60'

[79loserbluebu]

The car is quick, but I feel there is a lot left including my 1.71 60'. The car ran 11.83@115 with that time. Stock springs, bilstein shocks, spohn rear sway, front sway removed, Nitto 245/50 nt555r drag radials, 3400lb car with 3.73.

Since then I added some cheap 3-way adjustable shocks, and a set of airlift bags. I did a couple launches just on the street, and the car wheel hopped badly. Dropped the air in the tires and it got much better. I understand this is just the street, but should I replace the sway bar with an ARB, and the tubular uppers with adjustables? Will a set of Eibach springs be better vs the originals? Will rear upper control arm braces help at all?

Sorry for these all questions in one thread.

Forgot to add, the car is daily driven, hence sway bar instead of ARB. Also the time was on the daily wheels, not enough cash for drag wheels.

 

[UMI Sales]

Hey 79. Sounds like your car rips pretty well already!

Do you have any LCA brackets yet? Your combination actually looks pretty good. Dropping your lower control arms a bit in the rear might help.

Let's discuss.

ramey

 

[10secBu]

On the track, does the car spin, or is it running dead hooked?

If it's not spinning, a quicker 60' is a matter of providing more torque to the track. That could mean making more power/torque from the engine, or it could mean improving the combination like a better matched torque converter, gearing, or even reduced parasitic losses.

If the car is spinning, then your gonna need to dig into the suspension tuning.

 

[Ed Cannon]

Probably the tires. Put some M/T drag radials on it and see what it does. Or borrow a set. Also your launch RPM has an effect on the 60 ft. The higher I stall my car the slower it 60 ft's. I leave from an 800 rpm idle and mat it. 1.59 60 ft's. Of course everyone's combo is different.

 

[79loserbluebu]

I'll have to try a set of M/T's. I tried a set of slicks and the 60' stayed the same, yet the ET was down. I was also spinning on the slicks. The drag radials I really don't have a clear answer. I only made 10 runs alltogether with the car always changing things each pass. It seemed for the most part to hook pretty well though. As long as I left the psi at 20, it'd hook. If I went any lower the car wheel hopped at the track.

I will say if I launched lower than normal, it got me into the 1.69 60' times.

I do beleive I need to play around with the shift points a bit, as my WOT shift points were set at factory when the car was dyno tuned, and the tuner bumped it up a couple hundred RPM.

I was speced a pretty big cam for the car to replace the 224/224 .561/.561 112 cam I currently have.

I really regret it taking till late August to get the car driving, now the race season is over

 

[79loserbluebu]

Hey 79. Sounds like your car rips pretty well already!

Do you have any LCA brackets yet? Your combination actually looks pretty good. Dropping your lower control arms a bit in the rear might help.

Let's discuss.

ramey

I saw these and was interested in them. However, I also read somewhere that using these along with the coil spring helper bags they will work against eachother?



Another question I had is, would it be beneficial to get 15x8's (rear) and 15x4's (front) in a lightweight wheel for the track with a set of M/T radials on the back? Or should I just go ahead and get a set of M/T radials in 16" for the wheels I took there last time. I figured that if each wheel/tire weighs around 35lbs now, cut that down to half with race wheels, and I just dropped 70+/- lbs of rolling mass from the car.

Sorry for all the noobie questions, I'm trying to get the best times without sacrificing everyday driveability.

 

[UMI Sales]

Oops, just realized I missed the LCA bracket/air bag question. We have a ton of strong 60ft customers who run both at the same time. Basically the brackets correct a root cause problem and air bags are a final tuning tool. Brackets stay on forever while bags are potentially adjusted a psi or two based on lane condition.

Another thing is take good notes each pass so you can spot trends.

Ramey

 

[79loserbluebu]

Ok great thanks Ramey. Are the brackets available in bolt in or are they weld in only?

 

[UMI Sales]

Hey, thanks for considering the brackets. They are weld-in. Just prep your existing diff brackets with a grinding wheel along the back edge as shown in the catalog pic. A quick MIG bead on each side stitches them right in. The radius is such that factory arms bolt right in.