My 468 made 27 more HP on the dyno with a 1" HVH Super Sucker. Tried a 2" on the next pull and it made no difference. That's with RPM Air Gap and Q-850 Quick-Fuel carb.
We have tested alot of the HVH spacers on our chassis dyno over the last few years. The average gain is right at 10rwhp that I have seen personally.
We have seen a setup pick up 40rwhp from the addition of a 2" open spacer. This was on a 600" BBF that was already making 750rwhp.
We have seen a setup pick up 40rwhp from the addition of a 2" open spacer. This was on a 600" BBF that was already making 750rwhp.
has anyone done a set up with a tunnel ram yet? i haven't seen anyone with one, and im going to do it but i dont know if a 2-2 1/2 in cowl hood would fit to hide the tunnel ram, not lookin to go any bigger on the cowl tryin to keep a sleeper look to my 79'
tunnel ram intake aren't any good for street cars. You won't have any low end torque to speak of. You would also need some pretty tiny carburetors to use that with a 327.
well the set up i was thinking was 3.90's & posi locker with the tunnel ram 2 holley 450's and a super T-10 you dont think that would work out pretty good?? first car i ever built so its all trial and error for me i started it when i was in 9th grade 5 years ago.
A tunnel ram can actually be very effective on a street car. It's all in the tune-up. If you decide to use the t-ram, you're going to have to be willing to invest the time necessary to properly tune the carburetors as well as your ignition timing and advance curve. It might take you a good solid week or two of driving the car around and sorting out the carbs. When it comes to tuning a set-up like this on the street, I feel it's best to start with the ignition system and get that out of the way so you can focus on the carburetion. You're going to want to lock out the distributor mechanical (and vacuum, if applicable) advance mechanisms, and run 36-38 degrees of timing all the time. You may need to invest in a start retard such as an MSD Starter Saver once you lock out the timing to help make engine starting easier & keep from damaging starters & ring gears. The 450 cfm carbs would be a decent choice, and make for easy linkage & plumbing connections since you can mount them in-line. If you have a good local carb expert that can properly modify the Holley carbs, I would strongly recommend having the air bleeds converted to screw-in style similar to what you'd find in an HP-series carb. Once you establish the jetting, power valves, and accelerator pump tuning that the engine wants, you'll find that being able to tune the air bleeds will immensely help get your combo dialed in to perfection. You may also want to consider investing in a wide-band O2 sensor & monitor, as this is an invaluable tool when it comes to dialing in an exotic induction system, especially on a street car. This all may sound like a lot, but it all depends on how successful you want the t-ram installation to be. You don't HAVE to do all this to get the engine to run or even run half-way decent, but it WILL help you get the most out of your combination. Don't be intimidated by the t-ram or pay too much attention to horror stories about how they don't make any low-end torque, they're undrivable, etc., etc.
The actual manifold choice is pretty critical as well. I've found that one of the best choices for a "street" t-ram is the entry level Edelbrock unit. It has small runners that match O.E. iron head intake port openings very well as well as most popular aftermarket heads in the 170-200cc intake runner range. The plenum design is also a bit smaller than your typical race t-ram manifolds, so air velocity is decent which will help promote throttle response and torque. The basic Weiand tunnel ram is also a nice choice for a street car, although I still prefer the Edelbrock unit over the Weiand, especially for a smaller engine like your 327.
The 4-speed transmission & 3.90 gear ratio are good choices also. Sorry for the long post!
The actual manifold choice is pretty critical as well. I've found that one of the best choices for a "street" t-ram is the entry level Edelbrock unit. It has small runners that match O.E. iron head intake port openings very well as well as most popular aftermarket heads in the 170-200cc intake runner range. The plenum design is also a bit smaller than your typical race t-ram manifolds, so air velocity is decent which will help promote throttle response and torque. The basic Weiand tunnel ram is also a nice choice for a street car, although I still prefer the Edelbrock unit over the Weiand, especially for a smaller engine like your 327.
The 4-speed transmission & 3.90 gear ratio are good choices also. Sorry for the long post!
WOW that was alot ,but alot of good info thanks ill keep you guys posted on the progress and my 4 speed convertion is almost done should be done today!!!!
i had a guy that i did a 355 for that went in a buick regal, it had rpm air gap, afr heads, 11.5 to 1. 4.56 gears, 3800 stall, he put a hurricane on it after he had got engine, it lost 3 tenths in the 1/8, the hurricane is a pretty good intake for 400 c.i. and up.
spacers are only gonna work as good as your setup. each setup will react differently. a Weiand Team G, my favorite single plane intake works well with a 1" spacer. a Super Victor, RPM Airgap and Victor Jr. will come to life best with a different size or even make of a spacer. the most common error is people not matching the cam, heads and intake, not to mention headers. port matching, cooling your air intake, burning cool fuel such as Alcohol or Methanol ( i run Methanol), also contributes greatly to how a spacer will perform. to make it easiest, but a larger spacer, if it does not perform, have it milled down a little at a time until BINGO, you have your engine's desired thickness of spacer. trust me, this has been done and i watched it first hand. they guy milled the 1 1/2" spacer all the way down to 3/4"'s and his motor picked up available HP and Torque. by the way, for those of you who do not believe in or have not used a COOL CAN before, get one. you will notice crisper response, snappier launches, decreased engine temps, etc.. just a little FYI for some of you guys.
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