Lakewood Bellhousing/ clutch fork for Super T-10
- Thread starter workingr
- Start date
i did a super t-10 swap in my 79 malibu and i had a problem with the throw out bearing rubbing on the pressure plate all the time. i got my transmission out od an 81 camaro. and we took the stock bellhousing from the super t-10 and the stock clutch fork and set it on the motor. we lined it all up and with a little help from the torches we cut and bent the fork to pretty much were it needs to be. it looks pretty damn close to being to how it would line up with the g body mechanical linkage and the right spot for the trow out bearing to work rightt. ill post pictures soon. if you get the clutch fork for a 81 camaro and bend it.it should work. like i said ill take pics and post it.
By bending the fork and not relocating the ball stud, you are twisting the fork each time you depress the pedal. You are going to have issues with trying to twist the release bearing against the bearing retainer. The bearing is scrubbing the retainer and will have accelerated wear. Even though the Malibu fork is odd looking, there is still a straight line through the center of 3 critical points: The lower pushrod cup, the ball stud, and the release bearing.
t5montecarlo said:
im not correcting you or anything but, thats the issue were having right now with the stock camaro clutch fork. before the fork was being twisted and pinning the throw out bearing on to the preassure plate all the time. so when you drove it all you would hear was a low grind. now with the set up we made we bent the fork down to meet the lower ajustment arm and we twicked it alittle so that it was pushing the fork straight instead of twisting it like you said. its not factory status but it looks like its going to line up pretty good. if it still rubs ill be right back on here to let you know that it turnedout like crap haha.
Are you using a spring to pull the fork back and keep tension on the lower pushrod? Where on the fork is the spring pulling from? The same rule applies to the spring. If the hole for the spring is also not inline wiht the 3 points, it will also twist the fork when the clutch is engaged, and may cause the bearing to not be fully released from diaphragm. I relocated the spring on the stock fork because it was twisting the fork.
If what you have done works, then give it some time and see how you like it, and report back.
If what you have done works, then give it some time and see how you like it, and report back.
yeahh we relocate the spring right next to the lower arm kind of inline with it. , i forgot to mention that sorry. but we did do that and the spring pulls it on a straight path. my dads helpin me with it all really he knows how to weld really good and fabricate stuff he said hes done stuff like this before so im just sittin back burner and learnin.
soo today we put my transmission back in with everything and it worked pretty damn good. now we find out the syncros in my transmission are shot and i blew the drive shaft out of the car while playin "hot rod" but to aswer anyones question it seems to work pretty good with a stock super t-10 bell housing (you can order a repro from classic industries 11 inch bell housing.)with a lil mod to the clutch fork. ill post pictures soon if anyone has questions ill be glad to help as much as i can.
I see alot of post on bellhousing/clutch forks. My car has used a regular bellhousing or a Lakewood blowproof bellhousing for 15+ years I just had to dent My floor under the gas pedal. I have never had any problems other than NAPA's cheap clutchs and years ago 7.5" rear ends. My linkage works fine. Denting a floor with a hammer was easier than finding all the odd ball parts. 15 years ago I didn't know they took special stuff. Just My 2 Cents.
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